42 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY september 26-october 2, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com The life of a restaurant owner is not very glamorous, at least on a recent Friday afternoon—the lull between lunch service and the dinner rush. Denis Boaro sits at a dining room table, tapping at a laptop keyboard, his eyes fixed on its screen. Occasionally Federico Frangiamore will show him a bottle of wine and the two will exchange thoughts in Italian before Boaro returns to the computer. On this particular afternoon, Boaro, the owner of Basil Seasonal Dining in Carmel, and his business development director, are putting the finishing touches on a planned wine dinner. But they are also wrapping up a bigger project. It’s not unusual for chefs and restaurateurs to revise menus. In fact, regular change is implied in Basil’s name. But “revision” is not a word encompassing enough for what Boaro and Frangiamore have planned. “A mini revolution—that’s the first thing that comes to mind,” Boaro says. While they are not tossing longtime favorites from the restaurant’s menu, they are honing in on a particular region. Both come from the area around Venice, a diverse stretch of northern Italy that includes mountains cresting into Austria down to the coast. Not surprisingly, seafood is a feature of the region, as is asparagus, certain cheeses, bigoli, polenta and risotto and a certain oft-scorned spirit. Bassano— formally Bassano del Grappa—is located in Veneto. “This restaurant has been here almost 20 years,” Boaro observes. “We want to differentiate ourselves. We want to make it more exciting.” While they will continue to source meats, seafood and seasonal produce locally, they are bringing specialty items from Veneto, such as cheese, organic flour and cured meats. Often the most revered Italian dishes rely on quality ingredients and a few simple touches. But as Frangiamore explains, simplicity requires research. In this case, Boaro made visits back to the Old World—his parents own a restaurant in Italy—to sample dishes. But the real effort has taken place over the past four months, as Boaro, Frangiamore and Chef Adolfo Barragan tasted and tweaked. Poring over wine pairings, they went back and forth between some 80 wines and 40 recipes. Hard work? Boaro smiles, quietly acknowledging that particular process was not daunting. But they are being circumspect about the final menu, despite the launch date being just weeks away. Their hesitance has more to do with spirits and wine than food items. “We’re going to select a variety of old grapes that have been forgotten,” Frangiamore says. Italy’s National Registry of Grapes lists some 500 varieties. Yet by some estimates, more than 2,000 different winegrapes are grown in the country. Many of these are ancient, but had fallen from favor until being revived by interested young winemakers and a public more ready than ever to explore new flavors. The names are unfamiliar. Verdiso pricks the palate with the sensation of sharp green apple. Schioppettino is tannic, yet also brisk. Fiano is a white wine that ages well in the barrel. The red Rossese can be spicy, but also cool and floral. There are many others—old flavors ready for a new audience. Whether any of the above are part of Basil’s new wine list, Frangiamore is too cagey to divulge. He does indicate, however, that pairing was key in deciding which entrees made the cut. Hence the months of testing one against another. “We want to promote these grapes and tell their story through the dish,” Frangiamore points out. Boaro and Frangiamore refer to the revised purpose of Basil as one of traveling in place. They want the spirit of Veneto to play out around the table as well as on the plates and in the glasses. This means encouraging guests to try unfamiliar wine and to taste a craft amaro or dare to call for grappa and learn its rough-hewn charms. “We want to make sure people appreciate it all,” Boaro agrees. As for further specifics, diners will have to wait until the new Basil menu is unveiled. But after months of testing, the restaurant team is ready. “We are extremely happy,” Boaro says. Basil Seasonal Dining, San Carlos between Ocean and 7th, Carmel. 626-8226, basilcarmel.com. First course Owner Denis Boaro, Chef Adolfo Barragan and Federico Frangiamore, who oversees business development, are ready to unveil a new, purposeful menu at Basil in Carmel. Sip ’Siding Away…Doesn’t that sound like the makings of the perfect 21st birthday party? Everyone’s Harvest is throwing its 21st birthday party at the Seaside farmers market on Thursday, Sept. 26 from 3-7pm. For $20, guests can enjoy a drink and small bites from market vendors. Local beer and wine will be available for purchase (as well to really get in the 21st birthday spirit). 1259 Canyon Del Rey Blvd., Seaside. 384-6961, everyonesharvest.org. SNIP IT Good…Boogie the night away on Saturday, Sept. 28 to benefit SNIP Bus‘ mobile spay and neuter clinic. Attendees can help themselves to a dessert bar and no host premium bar while they dance. There will also be silent auction items, party favors, a photo booth and prizes. General admission is $95, VIP tickets are $175 via eventbrite.com. Carmel Woman’s Club, 9th and San Carlos, Carmel. snipbus.org. Shuck Yeah…Oystertown is popping up at Vin Bar on Saturday, Sept. 28 from 1-4pm, or until shucked out. Treat yourself to oysters, small bites, champs, sparkles and a shucking good time. Space is limited; RSVP suggested. Vin Bar, 237 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 2938715, vinbarcarmel.com. Nuovo At Il Vecchio…Il Vecchio has updated more than the menu since it changed ownership. They have a daily happy hour with $3-off beer, wine and cocktails from 5-6pm MondayThursday, and in the bar only FridaySunday. Wednesdays feature half-off all bottles of wine and no corkage fees. 110 Central Ave., Pacific Grove. 3244282, ilvecchiorestaurant.com. door shut…The bad news is that a customer accidentally drove into the front of Jim’s Chinese Restaurant. The good news is that the boarded-up windows are temporary, and the family is raising money via GoFundMe to reopen. 1584 Del Monte Blvd., Seaside. New, Old…Hops & Fog, the new brewpub in Pacific Grove, poured the first of its own line of beers. Fittingly called First Batch, it’s a West Coast IPA from brewmaster Mike Durrant. Meanwhile, the owners of English Ales in Marina will soon pour their last. Harry Harrison and Karen Blackwell-Harrison plan to retire after 24 years. The place is up for sale. Hops & Fog, 511 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove, 215-1658, hopsandfog.beer. English Ales, 223 Reindollar Ave., Marina, 883-3000, englishalesbrewery.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “We want to differentiate ourselves.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Pairing Up Basil’s menu is getting a revision to focus on the foods of Veneto and its forgotten wines. By Dave Faries
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