When was the last time you had a bologna sandwich? Remember the crackle and smoky haze that rings slivers of the loaf, a gift from time on the flattop that singes through the kindly brioche. Almost gossamer ribbons of pepperoncini echo its ruddy tang as a spread of mustard aioli provides some depth. If that doesn’t have a familiar ring, it’s because this bologna has a name— mortadella—and the sandwich is prepared not in haste by a distracted parent, but with care and quality ingredients by fine dining chef Fernando Tostado, served at Nora’s in Carmel. The touch is deft—wafery layers to the filling that transform the rich, nutty mortadella into something both refined and swaggering. First it was kale, followed by collards. Chefs began looking into other fundamentals, drawing from the rural South, including the “snout to tail” ethic of a people with little excess. Attention then turned to easy childhood favorites or the cozy fare evocative of family meals of decades past. Nostalgia is the culinary cutting edge. A 2025 study by the market research firm 210 Analytics found that 96 percent of Americans claimed to be very or somewhat interested in classic comfort recipes. For 2026, the National Restaurant Association projected that menus will reflect a “quest for comfort.” Like most culinary movements, elevating the ordinary is not new. Even two decades ago, restaurants were drawing attention for gilded burgers or lobster mac and cheese, although these were considered novelties. It’s a trend that took off during the pandemic, as people settled into casseroles or yearned for the inviting aroma of baking bread. Chefs responded, listing grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup, along with other relics— and then began dressing them for the evening. “I like the chicken pot pie,” Tostado says, referring to another of his restaurant’s favorites. Or the meatloaf—at Nora’s there is a homey warmth to the beef which settles into a pillow of brown gravy, cozy and rich. A layer of ketchup brings a soaring, fruity cheer. It’s a familiar presentation, but a thoughtful one. “It holds its own next to Wagyu and prime cuts of steak,” says Shane Cassidy, chef de cuisine of The Tap Room in Pebble Beach, where meatloaf is also featured. “It’s good to have some comfort.” 36 THE BEST OF MONTEREY BAY ® EAT + DRINK 2026-2027 LIVING IT UP Both chefs and diners are finding comfort in ordinary foods made extraordinary. By Dave Faries Montrio The Caledonian
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MjAzNjQ1NQ==