09-03-26

34 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY SEPTEMBER 3-9, 2026 www.montereycountynow.com It’s not that the dining room is still. Talk and laughter fill the space. Servers chat with guests as orders arrive at the tables. Alfredo’s Pastaria & Mozzarella Bar is busy on a Saturday night, as one would expect. Yet there is a pervasive sense of calm that defies the commotion of dinner rush—an ease to the manner of staff members, a pace to food service that is neither rushed nor measured, and the genial confidence of Freddy Ortiz. This is more than 40 years in local restaurants showing. Ortiz has been in kitchens and in front-of-thehouse roles at institutions such as the Sardine Factory and Whaling Station Steakhouse. He took over what was Mezzaluna Pastaria & Mozzarella Bar as a first-time owner in June when veteran Chef Soerke Peters decided to sell. And while he vowed to maintain Peters’ commitment to house-made quality, the restaurant feels like Ortiz’s creation. Granted, he had a bit of a head start. Ortiz served as general manager for a few years before purchasing the space, so he had an opportunity to set the tone, at least in the dining room. And Peters’ menu provided a not-broken, don’t-fix vantage point. “I know we have a really good menu,” Ortiz says. “It’s important to keep doing what we’re doing.” That means burrata with an English pea pesto so scrupulous it would never consider imposing itself on the delicate cheese, instead giving a quiet, supportive herbal nod. Pappardelle in a cured pork bolognese is equally composed, the natural sweetness of tomato tempering the brawny swagger of the meat. Pasta is prepared in house with flour imported from Italy and eggs from freerange chickens. The sauces begin with wine and butter rather than cream, an exception being a rigatoni dish created in tribute to the former New York destination, Coco Pazzo. Pancetta is cured in house and there is an evident commitment to Old World technique. Such is not to be confused with tradition that becomes unyielding. There are moments of play, such as nightly specials. From the bar, watermelon, mint and demerara bring the freshness of summertime to a margarita, with just a whisper of molasses. Averna lends a brooding swirl of dark chocolate and winter spices to the Manhattan. Even a simple charcuterie plate offers consonance, even through contrary blasts—the sharp darts of mustard seed or the sweet vampire smile of roasted peppers erupting over the hushed note of mortadella, yet readying the palate for what comes next. Ortiz not only learned Peters’ recipes, he also made certain to contact all the vendors, making note of just which brands or farms the chef used for specific ingredients. He reasoned that even the slightest change might tip a dish slightly off balance. As this attention to detail suggests, consistency is not so easily achieved. “You can reach a goal, but the trick is to stay there,” Ortiz says. “It’s a lot of pressure.” But there is no anxiety evident. He has pulled off a seamless transition, with the adoption of Alfredo’s the only obvious change. Ortiz laughs as he tells of his struggle over the restaurant’s name. Peters owns another Mezzaluna, and although it is located in northwest Arkansas, far from any potential for competition, he would only part with the Pastaria & Mozzarella Bar bit. But this posed a dilemma. A name change would potentially call into question Ortiz’s commitment to keep the concept unchanged. “I needed to come up with a good name,” he observes. “A lot of people know me.” Diners and restaurant staff in Monterey County have referred to Ortiz as Freddy for over four decades. Before that—and to this day—his family used the short form. “The more I thought about it, Freddy’s sounded too casual,” he explains. Yet Ortiz has succeeded in transforming the restaurant into his place, even as Peters’ same exquisite pasta dishes are brought from kitchen to table. Change has come not to the menu or quality of ingredients, but to the restaurant’s personality. The mood is of broad, familiar smiles and easy conversation, pats on the back from a longtime friend, all with a quiet graciousness—fine dining food paired to a relaxed room. It is Alfredo’s in name and cuisine, Freddy’s by nature. Alfredo’s Pastaria & Mozzarella Bar, 1188 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. (831) 372-5325, alfredospastariaandmozzarellabar.com. FIRST COURSE “I’m ready,” says Freddy Ortiz, a restaurant veteran who is a first-time owner. While leaving the menu unchanged, Ortiz has already made Alfredo’s Pastaria & Mozzarella Bar feel like his own. BOOTS SCOOTIN’…The Farm in Salinas is hosting a family-friendly evening on Friday, Sept. 4 from 5-8pm. There will be line dancing with instruction, hay-rides and photo opportunities in the flower fields. There will also be food and you-pick flower experiences available for purchase. $20. 5 Foster Road, Salinas. (831) 455-2575, thefarm-salinasvalley.com. BIRTHDAY, BOY…Peter B’s is turning 30 with a celebration from 5-8pm on Sunday, Sept. 6. In addition to their happy hour from 5-6pm and regular menu, they will have live music, a special anniversary ale, a raffle and more. Stop by to celebrate this milestone. 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. (831) 6494511, portolahotel.com/dining/peter-bs. KEEP TRUCKIN’…You can now dance, drink and dine at Pop & Hiss thanks to a new on-site food truck. The truck features night-time bites like a smashburger and fries, a baconwrapped danger dog, a veggie dog and more. Get the sustenance you need to dance the night away without having to leave the premises. 215 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. popandhiss.net. UPPER CRUST…Crust Fresh Sourdough Deli, a popular chain of sandwich spots from the Bay Area, has opened a location in Marina. They have hot sandwiches, classic deli sandwiches and signature combinations, salads, soups and more. They also offer catering services. 2754 Sand Dune Ave. #20, Marina. crustsourdough.com. FORGET PARIS…Paris Bakery, a downtown Monterey institution since 1985, has baked its last baguette. The shop originally opened by master baker Jackie Jeget ended its run on Sunday, Aug. 30. The announcement was made on social media, with no explanation given for the closure. Jeget sold the family bakery in 2024 to a Los Angelesbased commercial kitchen operator. The bakery was at 271 Bonifacio Place. GOOD GIG…Mike Yaley is the new owner of Paluca Trattoria on Fisherman’s Wharf. He officially took over from retiring Sal Tedesco on Sept. 1 after spending July training with the team. Yaley plans to continue the seafood and pasta concept but change the restaurant’s name to The Gig. It’s a nod to the location’s original restaurant, The Captain’s Gig, which had at one time been owned by Yaley’s in-laws. 6 Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey. (831) 373-5559. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “You can reach a goal, but the trick is to stay there.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS On Course Alfredo’s keeps the legacy of Chef Soerke Peters, yet new owner Freddy Ortiz sets the tone. By Dave Faries

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