46 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY MARCH 19-25, 2026 www.montereycountynow.com Certain dishes evoke a quiver of astonishment—cherries jubilee, for instance, or steak Diane. “You should see their faces,” says Miguel Ponce. “It’s unexpected.” Even more surprising, the owner of La Côte Bleue is not referring to a tableside flambé. Instead, the plate that raises such a stir is snapper. The fish is fileted and portioned, but served whole. Ponce anticipates this presentation to be one of the restaurant’s signatures, pointing out that trends have moved away from plating the head and tail. “The head is deep fried,” he points out. “The cheek, the collar—those are good.” La Côte Bleue opened in Pacific Grove recently, filling the old Max’s Grill location. The menu is dedicated to seafood: salmon on a puree of green peas, herb-crusted cod in a mushroom-butter sauce, swordfish sparked by peppercorns, oysters shucked fresh or flame grilled. The dishes can be both simple and thoughtful. A crab tower—offered as a recent special—explores the role of seasoning. Mango brings depth to the sweetness of the shellfish, with an added peppery sparkle. The salinity of the meat in turn shakes avocado from its opulent repose. Olive oil teased with citrus gives lean, ruddy ahi crudo an herbal zing. But Ponce is quick to explain that seafood restaurants must cater to other tastes. Care is evident with these dishes, as well. The roasted chicken, for example, is a two-day preparation, one spent in brine, the next allowing the skin to dry. Short ribs braise for up to six hours. “Last week we added paella,” he says. “It’s been really popular.” Ponce was introduced to the restaurant world as a child. His father Juan Ponce has helmed the kitchen at the famed Old Fisherman’s Grotto for decades and Miguel grew up watching him (“That’s where I spent most of my time,” he notes), and later working alongside. One lesson his father imparted was the importance of winning diners over, repeatedly. “Every day is a new day,” Ponce says. “You start all over again.” The surname should ring a bell. Miguel’s brother Rudolfo turned his namesake Pacific Grove restaurant— and its Sunday Nashville hot chicken pop-up Heatwaves—into a destination, becoming the subject of a documentary in the making. And there is a familiar face running the kitchen at La Côte Bleue. “My brother Juan Carlos,” Miguel Ponce says. “He’s very talented working with fish.” While his brother prepares seafood and other dishes, Ponce ensures that guests don’t overlook dessert. His background includes stints at Paris Bakery and on the pastry team at Pebble Beach’s Peppoli. The finishing touches are equally deft. The natural sweetness of apple is all that is needed to bring bread pudding to life, with the fresh bite from a drizzle of mango sauce and the cool, friendly tone of vanilla ice cream as bonuses. Despite his experience, which includes three years at Rudolfo’s, La Côte Bleue is Ponce’s first restaurant as an owner. He was drawn to the Max’s space for its manageable capacity, proven kitchen and downtown location. “You look down the street and you can see the ocean,” he says. “Pacific Grove is a good city to be in.” He did consider the challenge of replacing an acclaimed restaurant. Chef Max Muramatsu spent 22 years treating guests to comfortable fine dining before retiring in January. But he was also confident in the Mediterranean-inspired seafood concept. “They’re giving us a try,” Ponce says, referring to Max’s regulars. “I’m feeling pretty good.” Ponce plans to add to the menu gradually. But whole fish—whatever is fresh—is a mainstay. And once it arrives at the table, the snapper becomes its centerpiece. Eyes are drawn to the plate, hands to the calm, nutty flesh with its wisp of ocean breeze, grounded nicely by chimichurri. He believes it will start La Côte Bleue on the same path as Old Fisherman’s Grotto, Rudolfo’s and Max’s. Besides, during his time working with his brother Rudolfo, Miguel would break for lunch and go find grilled salmon or fried cod. “I love seafood,” he says. La Côte Bleue, 209 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. FIRST COURSE Miguel Ponce in the dining room of La Côte Bleue, which opened after a quick renovation. “We spent about a month hammering away,” he says. NO BILLS, NO MORE…Post No Bills has announced it is closing both locations in the not-too-distant future. The Carmel location will be serving food and craft brews with modified hours until the end of March. Stop by while you still can, Tuesday-Thursday noon-5pm, Friday and Saturday noon-7pm, and Sunday noon5pm. The original Sand City location will close in May so you have more time to stop there—but not much. (831) 3244667 postnobills.net. PETERS OUT…Chef Soerke Peters and Amy Stouffer, owners of Mezzaluna Pasteria & Mozzarella Bar, have announced they are passing the torch to the current general manager, Freddy Ortiz, who is taking ownership and changing the name, fittingly, to Freddy’s. It sounds like aside from ownership and a name change things will mostly stay the same, at least for the time being. 1188 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. (831) 372-5325, mezzalunapasteria.com. ROE BOAT…Foray Restaurant has a caviar service special that’s perfect for date night, or for treating yourself. Get caviar service and two martinis for $100, offered only at the bar from 5-6pm. Start your night off right. San Carlos and 5th, Carmel. (831) 2506100, forayrestaurant.com. FOR TWO…Normally just pouring teas and sparkling wines alongside a selection of finger foods would be enough of a draw. But at LadySomm’s Tipsy Tea event on Saturday, March 21, mobile cheesemonger Cali Cheese Wiz is a special guest. So it’s curds and tea, starting at 12:30pm. $55. 3728 The Barnyard, Carmel. (831) 295-0612, ladysomm.com. SENIOR MOMENT…Crepes of Brittany is celebrating its 16th year of treating Monterey to French favorites with a seniors program. Monterey County residents age 55 and older will get 15-percent off their orders daily through March 31. After that, the discount will be offered on Wednesdays and Thursdays. 211 Alvarado St., Monterey. (831) 6491930, crepesofbrittany.com. MAKE THE CUT…Speaking of discounts for locals, Pebble Beach Food & Wine is once again treating area residents. Order tickets by March 31 using the code LOCAL and receive 10-percent off most events and $50 off the Sunday Tasting Pavilion (a general admission weekend pass runs $685). pebblebeachfoodandwine.com. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “You look down the street and you can see the ocean.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Blue State There is a wealth of experience behind a new seafood spot in Pacific Grove. By Dave Faries
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