32 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY FEBRUARY 12-18, 2026 www.montereycountynow.com Chef Luis Reyes isn’t being nonchalant. After 19 years in the kitchen, measuring quality ingredients with tried and true technique is simply routine. “We just sear it,” he says of an ahi tuna entree. Eloquence may fail the chef in an explanation, but not on the plate. Fine slivers of tuna disappear on the palate, leaving a lean minerality and a whisper of sweetness as a reminder of its presence. The mellow sesame crust lends dimension and texture, while here and there toasted seeds offer smoky wisps. The fish is arrayed around a soba noodle centerpiece, topped with julienned vegetables. And this does interrupt your tuna reverie—in a good way. If Reyes treats the fish with care, he takes out his seasoning impulses on the noodles. There is a grassy tang, an earthy bite, a tempered heat and a soothing sweetness from what is described as a soy dressing. But, the chef says with a coy smile, “We have more ingredients than that.” Such is dinner at Terry’s Restaurant + Lounge in Carmel’s Cypress Inn. Where some restaurants strive to stay in pace with the latest trends or celebrate the fusion of distinct flavors, the team at Terry’s prefers to give staid classics their due. There is chicken piccata, shrimp scampi, filet mignon and endive salad—a menu reminiscent of the Rat Pack era (Cypress Inn was owned by Doris Day, after all). At the bar, people mingle over Vespers and French 75s. But that’s just the impression on paper. The hotel’s general manager, Joseph Violi, slaps the table and grins at the irony. “The espresso martini is hands down our number-one seller,” he says. Nodding toward Chef Reyes, Violi says of the menu, “It’s classic, but he has his own take.” Terry’s goes about its commitment to sustainability and seasonal quality with a soft voice. Reyes tweaks recipes as fresh ingredients become available and works with local organic producers as much as possible. Harris Ranch supplies beef for the short ribs, and it is exceedingly tender with a soft, earthy savor. A rustic note, like an unkept field—herbs, grasses, sun-beaten tomatoes—speaks of a low and slow braise. Reyes points to the short ribs as one of his favorites. The bar gives a similar impression, pouring Mad Men cocktails—Sidecars, Negronis and Pisco Sours—without calling attention to the trendy espresso martini or house specialties. But there is a reason some cocktails, like some dishes, are considered classics. Ian Fleming introduced the Vesper along with James Bond in his 1953 novel Casino Royale. With vodka and gin, as well as a splash of Lillet Blanc as a substitute for Kina Lillet, it’s clean, almost light—a rose petals and mint ballet on the palate that traipses behind it a faint bitter zest. With a soft fruit drifting through, it’s a pleasant drink. No wonder Bond salutes it as a “special martini.” French 75 is another reminder of old-school cocktail wisdom. Composed of gin, lemon juice, sparkling wine and simple syrup, it’s a brisk and refreshing sip with a peal of lemon and hint of salinity. In between, botanicals fall on the palate as if tossed in the air—juniper, coriander, angelica, rose, cucumber. The choice of gin is a bonus, as Hendrick’s gives the bright citrus a vigorous shake. Whether in restaurant or lounge form, Terry’s holds true to tradition without gathering dust. “We’re adding two spritzers for spring,” Violi says. “But we’re not taking our Old Fashioned off the menu.” As with changes to the menus, the space has quietly received some fine tuning. New furniture is in place, as well as stemware and napkins. “It’s in the details,” Violi observes. “There’s no question about talent.” Indeed, Chef Reyes earned People’s Choice honors at the Big Sur Foragers Festival’s Fungus Face Off for his entry of fried oyster mushroom bites on a bed of cheesy polenta. It’s a dish he tried out four times as restaurant specials before taking it to competition. Reyes just smiles at a mention of the award. His eloquence—he saves that for the plate, even when it comes to fried mushrooms. “Whatever is in season, that’s where it starts,” he says. Terry’s Restaurant + Lounge, Lincoln and 7th, Carmel. (831) 620-7454, cypress-inn.com. FIRST COURSE The seared tuna at Terry’s Restaurant is an example of the kitchen’s handiwork. Chef Luis Reyes keeps the fish simple, but plays with the rest of the plate. COMING SOON?…The Carmel Planning Commission met to consider use permits and a design review for Mama’s Boy and Mammone, a deli and restaurant concept from the owners of Stationæry. The property is at Dolores between 4th and 5th. The meeting was scheduled for Wednesday, Feb. 11, after the Weekly’s deadline. SCOUTING PARTY…Girl Scout cookie season is upon us, and what better way to celebrate than with a cookie and wine pairing? Stop by Comanche Cellars Friday, Feb. 13 through Sunday, Feb. 15 and try five wines paired with different Girl Scout cookies. $35; $10/ wine club members. 412 Alvarado St., Monterey. (831) 747-2244, comanchecellars.com. CRAFT WORKS…Rustique Winery is hosting a galentine’s night on Friday, Feb. 13 from 6-8pm where women will have a hand at various crafts while nibbling small bites and delectable desserts, and of course, sipping wines. $35; $25/wine club members. 1010 River Road, Salinas. rustiquewines.com. SING SONG…Bring your gal pals to Sovino Wine Bar & Merchant on Friday, Feb. 13 for galentine’s karaoke starting at 7pm. Sing your heart out while enjoying their many wines, beers and spirits. 241 Alvarado St., Monterey. (831) 6419463, sovinowinebar.com. TEA THYME…Rosemary and Thyme is hosting an elegant high tea at A Taste of Monterey from 3-4:30pm on Sunday, Feb. 15. Guests sip both sparkling wine and premium teas and can also enjoy finger sandwiches and freshly baked pastries. $99. 700 Cannery Row, Suite KK, Monterey. (831) 646-5446, atasteofmonterey.com, rosemaryandthymehighteas.com. LOCAL MOTION…The Fish Hopper is showing love to the locals with a special locals’ menu. Monday through Thursday, residents of any zip code starting with 939 (and those with military IDs) can enjoy a three-course meal for $19.95 to $24.95. Locals can also enjoy 25-percent off bottles of wine. 700 Cannery Row, Monterey. (831) 3728543, fishhopper.com. WHISKEY WISE…Tickets are on sale now for Cella Restaurant’s whiskey master class with Joshua Perry on Monday, Feb. 23. Participants will learn what sets whiskeys apart and more. $113. 525 Polk St., Monterey. (831) 920-1046, cellarestaurant.com. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “There’s no question about talent.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Place Setting Terry’s brings the classics to life, both in the dining room and at the bar. By Dave Faries
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