34 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY JANUARY 15-21, 2026 www.montereycountynow.com Valley Kitchen at Carmel Valley Ranch has a lot of advantages. Not only does the restaurant bask in an enviable—and well deserved—reputation, the luxury resort is also a working farm, producing honey, eggs, cheese, vegetables and more. So for a chef new to the kitchen, all of this must bring a sense of relief. No need to shake up the seasonal, farmto-table ethic—unless that chef is Ty Thaxton. “What aren’t my plans?” he asks, rhetorically. “We’re going to overhaul the culinary program for the entire property.” The “we” includes new Carmel Valley Ranch Pastry Chef Molly Coen, who is equally restless. “I want to bring it into the now,” she says of the dessert menu. “This is just the beginning.” Local, organic, seasonal have become taglines, applied even at modest restaurants. In their bold outlook is a shared notion: A menu should reflect all of those concepts, but it should also be rooted. Take Thaxton’s buttermilk fried chicken, which certainly challenges for the finest in Monterey County. A sous vide treatment in addition to the buttermilk bath ensures a juicy savor, but it’s an otherwise humble presentation—a crackling crust, its delicate toasted nut calm sparked by pops of pepper. One can imagine a tray of this golden brown chicken as the centerpiece of a farmhouse dinner. And that’s the point. Thaxton calls it California ranch cuisine, an elevated approach to dishes that makes sense, in terms of location, lifestyle, the people, the past and so on. It gives a reference point to local, seasonal and organic. Ranch + Sea is Thaxton’s version of surf and turf. A portion of pork belly, plush and cushy under a crisped skin, with a gentle nuttiness that fares well with the buttery sweet scallop and the earthy foundation of celeriac puree. The dish is composed, with the haze of roasted sunchoke wafting over the palate, taunting the earth and surf profile of the other ingredients. A basquaise sauce brings the plate together. It’s simple elegance, all speaking to the ranch and sea. Thaxton will add to the menu and adapt it according to what is available, noting that the climate allows for fresh ingredients over an extended period, in some cases, while other items might come available sporadically. “I hate to use the word seasonal,” he adds. “It’s like a chef’s paradise,” Coen says, echoing the possibilities offered by the Central Coast. One of her desserts—a cheesecake reimagined by presentation—provides further insight into their style. Plated invitingly, with a dark chocolate-hued crust on a white plate, with a drizzle of golden honey and tuft of cream, the cheesecake falls into the too-pretty-toeat category, until you do so. This is artistry applied to a simple, fulfilling dessert—a chef’s understanding of quality ingredients and technique, set to the comforting memories of treats brought to a family gathering. And one would be pressed to find better. “It’s fun to look at, fun to eat,” Coen observes. “But it’s still just a cheesecake.” Coen arrived at Carmel Valley Ranch just before Thanksgiving from the Four Seasons in Denver. Thaxton beat her to Monterey County, but only by a couple of months. The veteran chef has international experience, which includes time at the Ritz-Carlton in both Washington, D.C. and Cancun. Thaxton claims he was unfamiliar with the area before the interview process. “I wanted to get back to hotels,” he explains. “After I came here—what chef wouldn’t want to come here?” And what dinner guest wouldn’t appreciate the homey comfort of ethereal cornbread bites, far more delicate than the Southern staple? The honey butter accompaniment—all from the ranch—teases your palate with natural sweetness and bursts of salinity, without distracting from the rich cream. But Thaxton can provide heft, in the form of a double-bone pork chop, its triple-thick sides draped in pistachio, giving depth to the hazelnut tinge of the meat. It’s a reminder that ranch hands enjoy a hearty, filling meal. Valley Kitchen, Carmel Valley Ranch, 1 Old Ranch Road, Carmel. (831) 574-1850, carmelvalleyranch.com. FIRST COURSE Pastry Chef Molly Coen and Executive Chef Ty Thaxton of Valley Kitchen, the restaurant at Carmel Valley Ranch. LAST POUR…Farmers Union Pour House has made the decision to close the doors of its Oldtown Salinas location at the end of February. They plan to relocate—address TBD. For now, stop by while you can to sip a cold beer or glass of wine. 217 Main St., Salinas. (831) 975-4890. A DOG’S LIFE…Hofsas House is kicking off the Local Favorites Wine Friday series for 2026 on Jan.16 from 5:307pm. Mix and mingle to support Peace of Mind Dog Rescue. January’s event will have wine provided by Scheid Vineyards. $15 includes one glass of wine; reservations required. San Carlos between 3rd and 4th, Carmel. (831) 624-2745, hofsashouse.com. MASTER CLASS…You have to be good to be inducted into The World Master Chefs Society and for the first time, eight so honored chefs are partnering with Rancho Cielo’s Drummond Culinary Academy to serve a six-course dinner with wine pairings at 5pm on Saturday, Jan. 17. Proceeds benefit the nonprofit culinary academy. $242. 710 Old Stage Road, Salinas. (831) 4443560, ranchocieloyc.org. HAPPY HOME…Happy Girl Kitchen Co. is attempting to raise $200,000 for a down payment to purchase the building where it is currently located so the cannery and cafe can stay in place in Pacific Grove. They are hosting a series of fundraising events. The first takes place on Sunday, Jan. 25 from 3-6pm at Hacienda in Carmel Valley. Enjoy live music, mocktails and dinner. $75. 7180 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel. (831) 3734475, happygirlkitchen.com. COAST TO COAST…New York’s delis are legendary, but we live on the West Coast. No problem. Temple Beth El in Salinas offers a kosher-style deli pack with a pound of either corned beef or pastrami, a loaf of rye, salad, pickles and chocolate cake. Order now, with pickup 9am-5pm Thursday, Feb. 5 and 9am-2pm Friday, Feb. 6 at one of two locations: Temple Beth El, 1212 Riker St., Salinas; or First Presbyterian Church, 501 El Dorado St., Monterey. $45. (831) 424-9151, templebethelsalinas.org. CHOCO LOCO…The 21st annual chocolate and wine benefit event at the Monterey Public Library is on Saturday, Feb. 21 from 4-7pm, but tickets are on sale now; $60 through Feb. 1. 625 Pacific St., Monterey. (831) 646-3933, investinmpl.org. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “What chef wouldn’t want to come here?” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Ranch Hands A new kitchen team aims to transform Valley Kitchen by giving purpose to an exquisite menu. By Dave Faries
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