38 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY SEPTEMBER 11-17, 2025 www.montereycountynow.com When was the last time you had a bologna sandwich? Do you remember it? There is a crackle and a smoky haze that rings slivers of the loaf, a gift from time on the flattop that singes through the kindly brioche. Almost gossamer ribbons of pepperoncini echo its ruddy tang as a spread of mustard aioli provides some depth. If that doesn’t have a familiar ring, it’s because this bologna has a name— mortadella—and the sandwich is prepared not in haste by a parent, but with care and quality ingredients by fine dining chef Fernando Tostado. The touch is deft—wafery layers to the filling that transform the rich, nutty mortadella into something both refined and swaggering. You can turn to your drink or the side of chips, but you can’t. The sandwich is simply compelling, yet it’s not even one of the chef’s favorites. “I like the chicken pot pie,” he says. Keep in mind that the exquisitely humble presentation is from a restaurant in downtown Carmel, home to notables such as Chez Noir, Aubergine and Foray and Old World tablecloth dining rooms. Into this culinary milieu comes Nora’s, with a menu featuring meatloaf, turkey melts, chili and buttermilk biscuits—American comfort fare. “We have become a bit fancy,” says longtime restaurateur Faisal Nimri of the Carmel dining scene. “I’m not saying that in a negative way, but we get to fill a need.” Nora’s opened at the end of July in the space occupied until recently by Basil Seasonal Dining. Nimri was attracted by the outdoor courtyard, and the turnaround was so quick—just over two months—that the new restaurant beat its beer and wine license by a month. “People asked about it all the time,” Nimri says. A number of guests expressed disappointment. “Every day felt like a month.” Nimri and his team knew what to expect. The family has been through the ups and downs of an opening before—Nimri owns Village Corner while cousin Loie al Nimri and his wife Sarah operate Anton & Michel. Nora’s is named for their grandmother. It was that nod to family meals that prompted the comfort food menu. The “Sunday Meatballs” are scented with fennel. And the meatloaf embraces the soul. There is a homey warmth to the beef which settles into a pillow of brown gravy, cozy and rich. A layer of ketchup brings a soaring, fruity cheer. Again, it’s a familiar presentation, but a thoughtful one. The menu does stray beyond the realm of home and hearth. For example, there is a flatbread topped with fig jam, burrata, wild arugula and prosciutto, along with pasta dishes and area favorites, such as clam chowder and cioppino with locally-caught rock cod (“we love local,” Nimri observes). Yet items like twice-baked potatoes and vanilla ice cream with chocolate syrup tug at memories—and this from a chef versed in duck breast, rack of lamb and sauce mornay. Tostado also serves as chef at Anton & Michel and has spent the first month and a bit of Nora’s existence trekking back and forth between the two kitchens—climbing upscale and back down. “I think I’ve lost weight,” he says with a chuckle. Part of the reason for Tostado’s daily commute is practical. Despite the focus on comfort fare, the menu at Nora’s is more ambitious than its kitchen space. Adding cold storage at Anton & Michel solved that problem. But the crew also struggled to find the right flow. No new restaurant is free of wrinkles, of course. “At first it was very stressful,” he adds. “I feel like the kitchen is finding its rhythm.” Indeed, Tostado has brought a fine dining ethic, with its emphasis on quality, technique and nuance, to the everyday dishes of home. With a beer and wine license in hand, the next step is to hone the pairings—which in this case may also prove challenging. When was the last time, for instance, you paired wine with a mortadella sandwich? “That goes best with a good beer,” Tostado says. Nora’s is on San Carlos Street between Ocean and 7th, Carmel. 250-7447, norascarmel.com. FIRST COURSE Meatloaf smothered in gravy and a mortadella sandwich with chips are exquisitely executed dishes from Nora’s menu of comforts. THE BBQ TEAM…Marv’s Barbecue is hosting a pulled pork fundraiser on Saturday, Sept. 13 in partnership with nonprofit Al & Friends. Grab a pulled pork sandwich for $12 or a pound of pulled pork $20 and help provide meals for those in need. Head to Mal’s Market from 11am-3pm at 1264 Noche Buena St., Seaside. alandfriends.org, instagram.com/marvsbarbecue. RANCH HAND…Chava’s Corn & Potatoes will be popping up at Holman Ranch’s Tasting Room on Saturday, Sept. 13 from noon-4pm, or until sold out. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to pair with an estate-grown flight, glass or bottle of wine. 18 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 659-2640, holmanranch.com, instagram.com/chavas_corn. SHELL GAME…Celebrate Hispanic Heritage Night at the Monterey Bay FC’s match on Saturday, Sept. 13. Starting at 4pm there will be nine taco trucks as well as live music to bring the fun before the game starts at 7pm. (See more, p. 28.) 4111 2nd Ave., Seaside. 3242560, montereybayfc.com. FUND FUN…A fund for safety awareness and vocational education, #liveforross, is hosting a benefit barbecue on Saturday, Sept. 13 from 1-5pm at the Swiss Rifle Club in Gonzales. Revel in an afternoon of food, music and tons of fun—for a cause. $50 admission goes toward granting safety equipment awards to graduating students who complete welding and ag-mechanic programs. 34241 Gloria Road, Gonzales. liveforross.org. FLIGHT CLUB…The Battle of the Bartenders hosted by Links Club returns, this time pitting drink slingers from Monterey in head-to-head competition on Mondays at 6:30pm. The winner of the city championship gets $500 and moves on to the county round. The audience, well they get to sample cocktails and watch the action. $35/in advance; $45/at the door. Links Club is in Carmel Plaza, Mission and Ocean, Carmel. 2507816, linksclub.com. HAPPY HALF HOUR…Sip and learn at the Pacific Grove Museum of Natural History on Thursday, Sept. 18 from 5:30-7:30pm. Hear about the science and artistry of jade from a panel of experts while enjoying a happy half-hour, with beers from Other Brother Beer Co. $25/in advance; $30/door; $15 museum members. 165 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. 648-5716, pgmuseum.org. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “I feel like the kitchen is finding its rhythm.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Family Style At Nora’s, the simple comforts of home stand out among the destination restaurants of Carmel. By Dave Faries
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