34 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY JULY 31-AUGUST 6, 2025 www.montereycountynow.com A menu featuring fried artichokes and cioppino suggests a restaurant highlighting Central Coast flavors. But then there’s caprese, linguine and pizza, so perhaps Italian is more the focus. Hang on, though—a classic Caesar salad followed by a New York strip? This is steakhouse territory. Lighthouse Bistro is something unexpected. The lunch menu offers gyros and shawarma, but also a turkey club sandwich. That word—unexpected—even applies to the team’s culinary ethic. On a Saturday evening, one might see the kitchen readying for orders of the more popular dishes. This particular weekend, however, there are no Mediterranean meatballs and no baklava for dessert. “I’m waiting for my wife,” explains Ralph Elrayes, who created the concept with Chef Sunil Sthapit. Responsibility for the two items has not been passed on to another member of the kitchen team. When she is out of town, her specialties are on hold. Already a painstaking dish, the bistro’s baklava involves cashews, walnuts and rosewater. It’s a more subtle presentation, with nuanced notions ranging from bittersweet to floral—a welcome break from the cloying nature of more common baklavas. Kibbeh is a meatball found across the eastern Mediterranean prepared with bulgur wheat and pine nuts. “You have to take a little time,” Elrayes says of the kibbeh. “It’s homemade.” If kibbeh, baklava and a rustic hummus give the restaurant a Middle Eastern flair—Elrayes is from Lebanon—there are a few more surprises in store. “People come for the momo,” he adds. “No one is doing momo.” For the unfamiliar, momo is a carnival, a stampeding horde, a rush of sensations all at once. It is swarthy and spicy, herbal and nutty flavors packed into a morsel of a dumpling. One would insist that garlic and ginger are two of the instigators. “It’s simple—bone marrow, cabbage, onions,” the chef points out, shaking his head. Unable to find marrow he likes, Sthapit substitutes “a lot of fat.” The chef is Nepalese, one of the regions where momo is a culinary devotion. And he cautions guests to take the dumpling in one bite, whether it is steamed or fried. The filling—in this case beef or chicken—is juicy with exceptional zeal. (Take his advice if you happen to be wearing white.) Another Nepalese dish—choila, or tender beef in a spicy sauce—can be found on the lunch/brunch menu. There are, however, many more familiar options. The restaurant’s full name is Lighthouse Bistro Global Cuisine, and that is something Elrayes and Sthapit mean literally. The industry long ago strayed over the confining lines of a cuisine. Yes, there remain kitchens that concentrate on regional or national dishes. But in the era of fusion and experimentation, it is not uncommon to find chefs dabbling with traditions. At Carmel’s far-reaching Pangaea Grill, for example, staid Old World items like duck breast and mushroom ravioli share menu space with poke and kimchee fried rice. The aptly-named International Cuisine in Pacific Grove features everything from gyros to stroganoff and tacos. “I picked popular items—rack of lamb, fish and chips, clam chowder,” explains Elrayes, who created the concept. “I did global because everyone likes something different.” Eclectic menus of this nature are a departure from fusion cuisine. Fish and chips arrive at the table with a bottle of malt vinegar. Pancakes come with maple syrup. Elrayes admits that it was difficult, in the beginning, for staff members to grasp the full range of offerings. The restaurant opened quietly in May, replacing the Mexican diner Mando’s— itself a transplant from Pacific Grove. Sthapit began testing Nepalese dishes after taking over the space, while still under the Mando’s name. “He asked if I had any ideas,” Elrayes says. And thus Lighthouse Bistro, a place with no culinary boundaries—except when it comes to preparation. “Everything is from scratch,” Sthapit observes. So if a certain spouse is away, baklava will wait for another day. Lighthouse Bistro Global Cuisine, 570 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. 884-5663, lighthouse-bistro.com. FIRST COURSE Momo are Nepalese-style dumplings. The appetizer is one of the offerings on the wideranging menu of Lighthouse Bistro. MISS SWISS…Those fond of fondue may wish to sit down for this: Lugano Swiss Bistro is for sale (see story p.8). Marco Chavelas, who himself purchased the longtime haven of warming, hearty Swiss fare in 2019, plans to remain open for perhaps as long as a month before the deal closes. Chavelas helped open the restaurant in 1995 and took over after the death of original chef and owner Andre Lengacher. Check back for more information. 3670 The Barnyard, Carmel. 626-3779, luganocarmel.com. TAPPED IN…Alvarado Street Brewery’s downtown Salinas location, formerly known as Alvarado on Main, has been rebooted. Alvarado Street Brewery Taproom features a more pub-friendly menu (think burgers, pizza, tacos). But the beer remains the same. 301 Main St., Salinas. 356-0219, asb. beer/pages/salinastaproom. RAISE THE ROOF…Soak up the summer sun at the Lindarose Bar & Grill rooftop at Hotel 1110. They’ve expanded their hours and are now open on Sundays from 4-9pm. Enjoy a craft cocktail or dinner with an unbeatable view. 1110 Del Monte Ave., Monterey. 655-0515, hotel1110.com. SUNDAY FUNDAY…McIntyre Vineyards is hosting a Sunday music series from now through September. Sip a glass, or better yet, a flight of wine or a chilled frozé on their patio with live music from noon-4pm. Reservations are recommended as space is limited. 24 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 5743042, mcintyrevineyards.com. WHEEL DEAL…It’s not wise to drink and drive. But what if you could drink and ride—and in a classic car, no less? Monterey Touring Vehicles offers The Scenic Sip Tour, a private wine tasting cruise for two through Pebble Beach, Carmel and Carmel Valley in a classic car chauffeured by a wine guide. $650. 337-8800, montereytouringvehicles. com. CHIP AHOY…Annee Martin has cookies on hand for customers of Ami Carmel. Now she is collecting cookie recipes for a new cookbook with one requirement: The recipe must include chocolate chips in some form. Martin calls this the Kindness Cookie Project, and some of the proceeds from the sales of the book when it comes out will go to local nonprofits. Go to amicarmel. com for more details. BY JACQUELINE WEIXEL MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “I did global because everyone likes something different.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Near, Far A new spot in Monterey travels the culinary world, offering something for everyone—with a surprise or two. By Dave Faries
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