40 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY MAY 15-21, 2025 www.montereycountynow.com There is a story making the culinary rounds that, one fine day in 1957, a regular customer of a cafe in the Canadian province of Quebec asked the proprietor to toss cheese curds on his order of fries. The response was an incredulous “ça va te faire une maudite poutine” (“that will make a damned mess”). Poutine is, admittedly, not the most Instagram-worthy of presentations—a mound of fries doused in brown gravy and studded with nibs of cheddar. But since its creation sometime in the 1950s, most likely in Quebec, it has become a standard. Indeed, Chef Justin Robarge at the Monterey Bay Aquarium harbors a fantasy of opening a poutine-centric restaurant. Although it’s a simple and hearty pub dish, poutine can be dressed for dinner. For the high-end Heritage Fire event hosted by Inn at Spanish Bay earlier this year, Chef Mike Fischetti of Carmel’s The Pocket showcased a well-received version topped with roast duck. Unfortunately Fischetti opts not to offer it at the restaurant. Robarge’s lauded recipe was tucked away, not to reappear, after he left Montrio more than five years ago. Which makes poutine difficult to find in Monterey County. And yet Chef Angela Tamura of Peppoli in Pebble Beach was so impressed with the messy pile of fries she encountered on a trip to Canada eight years ago that she vowed to put it on the menu. Her reasoning: “It’s a fun thing. Why not?” Tamura envisions poutine as if it had first been created at an Italian trattoria. Bolognese stands in for brown gravy and buffala mozzarella takes the place of rustic curds. Wild boar traverses the lowly beginnings and more upscale potential of poutine—peasant fare, but equally familiar at fine dining restaurants. The sauce brings a rugged, husky quality that suits the substantial nature of the dish. But it is brightened by the fruity nip of San Marzano tomatoes. What sets it apart, however, is the cheese—a blanket of cream billowing over the palate, causing a temporary spell of amnesia, snapped only by the crackle of thick cut fries. A final sprinkle of Parmeggiano Reggiano lends pops of briny, nutty savor. “Authentic? Not at all,” Tamura observes. “But loving poutine, we wanted to make it right for an Italian kitchen.” It’s an example of the heights such a weighty dish can achieve. Fine dining restaurants have been known to add lobster. Famed chef Martin Picard may have been the first to recognize the possibilities of poutine. At least it was news when, in 2002 at his Montreal restaurant Au Pied de Cochon (once referred to as “a bastion of excess”), he prepared a version with foie gras. Chefs appreciate its versatility, diners are taken by its humble soul. Tamura’s take on poutine is not served at Peppoli. Rather, it’s part of the menu at neighboring Traps Bar & Lounge. As the chef observes, “It’s pretty popular— good for sharing.” The dish is likewise relegated at Shearwater Tavern in Carmel, appearing on the happy hour menu. Again, however, it’s one of the favorites. Chef Jae Moon pays more homage to tradition, using a wine reduction to craft a dense brown gravy and finishing with curds. But he batters and deep fries the cheese for a little extra crunch. And he brings shredded short ribs to the party. The result is a satisfying dish—rustic, with a deep and swarthy nature. Moon doesn’t choose to elevate or complement the ingredients, just to give it a little more brawn. His inspiration was two-fold. Since taking over as executive chef at Shearwater Tavern, Moon has looked for ways to set the restaurant apart. “I want this place to be a one-off,” he says. And because Traps is the only other establishment on the Peninsula offering the dish, poutine fits with his intentions. Moon was also drawn to its essential simplicity. Poutine is fundamentally a messy pile of fried potatoes, sauce and cheese—a little fanfare for the common person. “Those are ingredients people have,” Moon says. “I took a look at the prep area and said, ‘hey, I’ve got poutine.’” Traps Bar & Lounge, 2700 17-Mile Drive, Pebble Beach. (800) 877-0597, pebblebeach.com; Shearwater Tavern, 3665 Rio Road, Carmel. 624-1841, shearwatertavern.com. FIRST COURSE The poutine at Shearwater Tavern nods at tradition, but Chef Jae Moon fries the cheese curds and adds shredded short ribs. NO CHOKE…The Artichoke Festival is ending its run after 65 years. Organizers cite the financial strain of insurance, permitting and production costs. Originally based in Castroville, the event moved to the Monterey County Fair & Event Center a few years back, and a new location near Salinas was announced before the decision was made to shut down. Organizers thanked the sponsors, volunteers, vendors, growers and the entire community for more than six decades of support. artichokefestival.org. KREW CUT…Brew N Krew Ale House and Karnaval Café are shutting down, after efforts to keep the fun atmosphere and creative dishes and drinks alive. The brewery is closed immediately and the café will operate until supplies run out. 155 Main St., Salinas. 676-6533, instagram.com/brewandcrewsalinas. FINE WINE…The next in Hofsas House’s Wine Fridays series takes place 5:30-7pm, Friday, May 16. Enjoy a glass of Scheid Family Wine and small bites for $15, with additional glasses of wine available for $5. Proceeds support Peace of Mind Dog Rescue. San Carlos between 3rd and 4th, Carmel. 6242745, hofsashouse.com. PARTY LIKE ITS 1925…Because 1929 was not so roaring. Throw it back to the pre-crash 1920s at Rustique Winery’s Roaring ’20s Adult Prom Night. Get ready to dance the night away at this annual Project Prom fundraiser event 7-10pm Saturday, May 17. Have fun while helping provide prom outfits for others. $95. 1010 River Road, Salinas. 320-8174, rustiquewines.com. PIE CHART…Get your fill of empanadas at Estéban Restaurant’s Empanada Mondays. From 4:30-8:30pm they’re serving three empanada options (pork, sofrito and shrimp) for just $5 each. Start your week off right with this deal. 700 Munras Ave., Monterey. 375-0176, hotelcasamunras.com/dining. SUNTORY TIME…Anyone can host a wine dinner. But what about a Japanese whiskey dinner? That’s right, C Restaurant + Bar pairs five courses with whiskeys from Suntory from 6-9 pm, on Thursday, May 22. Only 24 seats are available, so you have to reserve right away. $175. 750 Cannery Row, Monterey. 375-4500, thecrestaurant-monterey.com. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com Poutine is a little fanfare for the common person. EAT + DRINK DAVE FARIES Fine Mess Poutine is not easy to find in Monterey County, but two kitchens showcase its range. By Dave Faries
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MjAzNjQ1NQ==