22 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY MAY 8-14, 2025 www.montereycountynow.com On a dreary morning in Salinas in a parking lot behind Monterey County’s Environmental Health Department Bureau, two food trucks wait for inspection. Both are from San Jose, both specialize in tortillas. The owners are seeking approval to work in Monterey County. Ismael Chavira, the inspector from Environmental Health, greets Eduardo Alvarez, owner of Tortilleria La Familiar, and checks his paperwork. Physical inspection of the truck takes about 30 minutes. Alvarez operates two food trucks and has worked in San Jose for the past two years. “I was just trying to bring a little bit of Mexico over here to Salinas,” Alvarez says. He hasn’t decided where he will be setting up, but notes he will start as soon as he receives his license. Food and fire inspections are required annually for any food vendor who operates in the county; those that operate within city limits may require additional licensing. At the county level, the consumer protection team at Environmental Health inspects every food vendor, from the paletero selling popsicles on the streets to home kitchens, food trucks and brick-and-mortar restaurants. Among other things, inspectors check if the space is sanitary, that there are protocols to avoid cross-contamination and that refrigeration is at the proper temperature. The annual county permit for vehicles that prepare hot meals onsite runs $1,060. Cart operators pay $501. As of April 2025, the county had issued 266 food truck permits. Eighty-two of them are currently permitted to operate in Salinas, while only eight are in Monterey. A roaming permit for the City of Salinas costs just over $1,000. (Temporary permits can be provided for special events, such as music festivals.) Steven Bracisco, owner of the Salinas-based pop-up SMS Clam Chowder Hut, recently purchased a food truck. His tent makes regular appearances at Oldtown Salinas and Carmel Valley farmers markets, and he also sets up in Sand City, outside of Post No Bills. Bracisco says the process took some time, “but it wasn’t as bad as everybody else was telling me because I bought the food truck used and I picked it up out of Santa Cruz. “Trying to buy a food truck or a food trailer, and coming in from scratch—if you don’t know what you’re doing, I think the process would be a lot harder,” Bracisco adds. Food trucks are subject to requirements that are not necessarily intuitive for a new owner. If serving at a location for more than an hour, for example, there must be bathroom access within 200 feet. The owner must have a non-mobile kitchen to store and prepare ingredients, as well as a place to park the truck when not in use. America Leon, an environmental health specialist with the county, points out that providing a menu to the department is critical because it can change equipment requirements. If the owner uses a deep fryer in the truck, for example, a kitchen hood to remove smoke, steam and grease is required. Many truck operators use a commissary kitchen to prep some ingredients; Leon says finding a commissary location is a step many entrepreneurs find challenging. A standing kitchen is important because many food trucks shut off power for extended periods, and owners need a space to prepare meals, store fresh ingredients and dispose of trash and dirty water. But paperwork is the most daunting task. “I think it can be overwhelming where to start, because they see all these forms online,” Leon says. “Or sometimes they just get a big packet.” (Environmental Health staff members are able to help guide operators when it comes to completing paperwork.) The process is lengthier when vendors opt to buy a new truck because they also need to pass a state inspection, required for new or out-of-state food trucks to make sure plumbing, electrical and equipment meet safety and health standards. “Because of that extra step that they go to the state, it could be a few months to get them fully permitted,” Leon says, noting they must pass the state inspection before the county inspection. The department recommends that people call them before investing thousands of dollars in an out-of-state food Slow Lane Before hitting the road, food truck owners face rules, inspections and a lot of paperwork. By Celia Jiménez Anthony Azevedo, aka “Whitey,” took his Salinas food truck in a classic American direction serving burgers and fries. He opened Whitey’s in 2022. A customer transaction at Kuki’s food truck. While it is less expensive—and perhaps easier—for chefs to start a food truck career than to open a traditional restaurant, there are some hurdles prospective owners might not expect. NIK BLASKOVICH DANIEL DREIFUSS
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