www.montereycountynow.com MARCH 6-12, 2025 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY 21 The most recent DoorDash survey of dining activity over a one-month span found that ordering food delivered edged in-person dining, by 70 percent to 68 percent. It suggests that the way people dine is becoming more impersonal. “If someone comes in and waits, we’ll pack it up for them,” says Federico Rusciano, chef and owner of Bistro Moulin in Monterey. “But they aren’t getting the restaurant experience.” He has adamantly refused to engage a delivery service, even during the Covid shutdown. “It defeats the purpose of a restaurant,” Rusciano explains, speaking of atmosphere down to details such as plate appeal. “It’s utilitarian.” The way Americans approach restaurant dining has changed over the years. Ted Balestreri, owner of the iconic Monterey destination Sardine Factory, likes to talk of the days when fine dining venues insisted on protocol and guests willingly donned coats and heels. But recent generations prefer comfort. The fast-casual sector boomed. Shared plates became the norm. Perhaps those who order to-go care less about plating, even quality. Many items do not travel well. Pizza crust suffers, fried foods lose their crackle, pasta heated in the microwave after a 20-minute drive turns tacky. The warming containers carried by drivers, or even just residual heat, can lead to overcooked steak or fish. Omelets will dry out. Sandwich bread might soak through. The list goes on. Some chefs stake limits on their delivery menu. In the absence of an in-person vibe, the only way to represent one’s cooking is the food itself. And even a simple tray of nachos for the Super Bowl can become a sodden mess. Yet according to the 2024 DoorDash survey, the top five foods ordered in the U.S. include spicy chicken sandwiches, mozzarella sticks and—at number one—French fries. “Fries, no matter what, are going to be soggy,” Wolff observes. “They’re sitting in steam.” It doesn’t appear to matter. Since 2013, Dashers have delivered more than 600 million orders of fries in the U.S. alone. Throughout the 2010s, third-party delivery grew at a faster rate than in-person dining. While the restaurant industry experienced a respectable 4-percent annual growth rate before the pandemic, the market for delivery expanded at an 8-percent clip. It has been rocky at times. Cybersecurity Insiders reports that at one point, the delivery companies were chasing losses of $1.5 million each month due to fraud. But as each wave hit, they found ways to locate and secure weaknesses in the platforms. That’s the nature of conducting business online. At the same time, companies like DoorDash and Uber Eats are causing restaurants to make decisions: delivery or none, full menu or select items, 15 or 30 percent. The nature of restaurant dining is in the mix. “There are pros and cons,” Wolff says. “There are a lot of benefits, but it has to be paid for.” Tickets for deliveries begin to mount at El Cantaro. ONLY $32.99 EVERYTHING YOU NEED Quality feed & pet supplies • DIY dog & cat vaccines • Premium hay at great prices Low cost vaccination clinic for dogs & cats. Microchipping. Prescription flea/tick medication. Open every Saturday 1:30pm-4:30pm. 101 W. LAUREL DR, SALINAS • (831)443-6161 Mon-Sat 9am-6pm Sun 10am-5pm $5 OFF Any purchase of $25 or more $20 OFF Any purchase of $100 or more CHICK SEASON IS HERE! $10 OFF Any purchase of $50 or more CANNOT BE COMBINED WITH OTHER OFFERS. LIMIT 1 COUPON PER CUSTOMER. NOT VALID ON HAY SHAVINGS, PETLOCK, ADVANTAGE/ADVANTIX, OR SERESTO COLLARS. MUST PRESENT ENTIRE PHYSICAL COUPON AT TIME OF PURCHASE. CHICKS ARRIVE EVERY FRIDAY! OUR CHICK BREEDS: RHODE ISLAND RED BARRED ROCK AMERAUCANA GOLDEN SEX LINK BLACK SEX LINK CORNISH CROSS WITH THE BEGINNER POULTRY KIT! Grove Market proudly carries only the freshest meats and produce. We have everything you need for St. Patrick’s Day DON’T FORGET YOUR CORNED BEEF! 242 Forest Avenue, Pacific Grove (831) 375-9581 Mon-Sat 8am-7pm • Sun 9am-6pm Voted BEST NEIGHBORHOOD MARKET and BEST BUTCHER SHOP
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