34 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY FEBRUARY 6-12, 2025 www.montereycountynow.com Philadelphia or Kansas City? Well, the latter’s roster has a couple of standouts. However, there is greater depth on the Philadelphia sideline. By the way, we are not talking football here. No, the subject is the dishes associated with each city playing in this year’s Super Bowl. There is a surprising array of foods associated with Philadelphia—scrapple, water ice, pork roll, roast pork sandwiches, tomato pie, the hoagie and, of course, the cheesesteak. The latter has become ubiquitous across the country, so it’s easy to find a version of the Philly staple, although fortunately few stoop to Cheez Whiz. But another item can be easily found across the City of Brotherly Love and its environs: the soft pretzel. “We did pretzels for that same reason the last time Philadelphia was in,” says Chef Todd Fisher of The Meatery in Seaside, who each year creates a Super Bowl-related menu. The sandwich was just too obvious an option. But this time around—“I wanted to do roast pork, but we got so many requests for cheesesteak.” The Meatery’s takeout menu for the big day includes a cheesesteak kit. Yet such is the appeal of pretzels in the city that when comedian David Brenner—a Philadelphia native—published his memoir, he gave it the title Soft Pretzels with Mustard. Pretzels fitting the Philly mold can be found at Brophy’s Tavern in Carmel and Tarpy’s Roadhouse in Monterey. “It’s definitely a crowd favorite,” says Rory Filbin, general manager at Tarpy’s. “We braise ours with beer and honey and serve it up on a wooden cutting board with Maldon sea salt, whole grain mustard and jalapeño-cheddar beer cheese.” Think Kansas City, and barbecue instantly comes to mind. The city is one of America’s barbecue capitals. Unlike Texas, where brisket rules, or pulled pork from the Carolinas, Kansas City pitmasters happily work with any meat, from chicken to ribs. What helps define the city’s style is its distinct sauce. “It’s a sweet tomato-based sauce,” Fisher explains. Molasses gives it depth. “Our Coca-Cola sauce leans toward Kansas City. But we’re not changing it. It’s so freaking good.” Yes, other culinary quirks exist. In that part of the country it is common to serve cinnamon rolls with chili. And KC-style tacos are unique, thanks to the sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. However, pitmasters in the city pioneered a certain cut from barbecued brisket, one that even Texans overlooked: the burnt end. Essentially the tip of a brisket, cut and sent back to the smoker, burnt ends gained regional popularity when staff at the barbecue destination Arthur Bryant’s started handing them out to appease those waiting in line. National notice came after a 1972 Playboy article by Calvin Trillin. “The main course at Bryant’s, as far as I’m concerned, is something that is given away free,” he wrote. “I dream of those burned edges.” “We sell out just about every single day by four,” reports Johnny Miller of Crossroads Barbeque in Carmel, where they began serving the dish a year ago. “I like to joke that I’m the bad guy. Most people are understanding.” At The Meatery, Kansas City is represented once again by burnt ends, these wrapped in bacon. “We’ve gotten good at making them since the Chiefs have been there four years in a row,” Fisher says with a laugh. Burnt ends are a KC signature that started as an afterthought. Pretzels are equally lowly—Philadelphia street fare, dating back at least to the 1820s and likely before. But what if the Ravens, Vikings, Commanders or another team had reached the Super Bowl? Minnesota or Washington, D.C. are problematic. After all, what local restaurant serves casserole, bundt cakes or the Jucy Lucy? And Washington’s half-smoke? Forget it. The point is that most American cities can offer at least one regional dish. Some, like the chicken wing from Buffalo or the Cuban sandwich found in Tampa Bay, are served nationwide. Had Baltimore secured a spot in the game, Fisher was planning again to skip the obvious—crabcakes—and prepare pit beef. But it’s down to the Eagles and Chiefs. As to the outcome of this culinary fray, the oddsmakers have a clear favorite. “Cheesesteaks are outselling burnt ends so far,” Fisher says. FIRST COURSE Burnt ends—a Kansas City favorite—earned a regular spot on the menu at Crossroads Barbeque a year ago. DRIVE-THRU DELI…Temple Beth El’s 69th Annual Kosher-Style Deli Pack Drive Thru takes place Thursday and Friday, Feb. 6-7. Grab a pack with all the fixin’s to make your own kosher deli sandwich, including a pound of either pastrami or corned beef, a loaf of rye bread, salad, dill pickles and half of a chocolate cake. Packs are $45 for the entire meal and can be picked up in Salinas or Monterey. 424-9151, templebethelsalinas.org. OUT OF THE FORGE…Historic Carmel restaurant Forge in the Forest has been in business since 1972, and will close after Feb. 7, its last day in operation. Owners Greg and Carolyne Profeta took over 20 years ago, and said they had hoped to renew their lease, but property owner Esperanza Carmel declined. “We’re devastated, shocked and deeply sad,” Greg Profeta says. “It’s really hard.” BETTER BY HALF…The Holman Ranch tasting room puts Happy Hour on the Half Shell on Friday, Feb. 7 from 5:30-7pm. Oysterman Parker Stokes does the shucking. And no doubt the bivalves pair well with Holman’s 2021 Reserve Jarman Sparkling Brut Rosé. A ticket includes three fresh oysters and one glass of the sparkler. Additional raw oysters will be available for purchase during the event. 18 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 659-2640, holmanranch.com. B’S PLUS…Immediately following the Super Bowl, Peter B’s Brewpub will shut down—but not for good. Work will start on Monday, Feb. 10 on a renovation project that will bring a new look to the dining room, bar and popular patio areas. The reopening of the space (expect natural materials reflective of the beauty of the coast) is planned for the summer. During the downtime, Peter B’s beer will be available at Jacks Monterey and other restaurants. 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. 844-290-2611, portolahotel.com. CLASS SESSION…The 15th annual Rancho Cielo Culinary Roundup takes place on Sunday, Feb. 23 at the Portola Hotel & Spa in Monterey. Guests will experience and taste first-hand the talents of Rancho Cielo’s Drummond Culinary Academy students. Proceeds from the evening go to helping underserved youth get tools for success in a training program that takes place on Rancho Cielo’s Salinas campus. $195. 444-3533, ranchocieloyc.org for tickets. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “Cheesesteaks are outselling burnt ends so far.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Super Food While the Eagles and Chiefs battle for a football title, there is also a culinary contest at stake. By Dave Faries
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MjAzNjQ1NQ==