52 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY DECEMBER 12-18, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com There has been a wave of notable restaurant openings in Monterey County over the past three years. High-end kitchens like Alejandro’s in downtown Monterey, Maligne on Broadway in Seaside or Carmel’s Foray and Chez Noir—the latter earning a Michelin star and other national accolades in its first year— drew attention to a dining scene that is becoming destination-worthy. At the same time, less aspirational establishments also filled in the landscape. For example, the Sunday popup Heatwaves in Pacific Grove, King City Grill, or the cocktail haven Altura Lounge in Salinas. One need only visit Spotted Duck in P.G. to realize that “less aspirational” did not translate to lower standards. By comparison, one could easily label 2024 as a year of relative calm. When the time came for Weekly readers to send nominations for Best New Restaurant, the Marina beer-centric franchise The Brass Tap was a finalist. And voters selected Woody’s at Del Mesa for the top honors—a reasonable choice, seeing that it draws from Woody’s at the Airport, twice named the nation’s best airport venue. As if to attest to an even-tempered year, when announced as the executive chef at The Quail, Goran Basarov dismissed any desire for stars, instead courting familiarity, though on a global scale in terms of flavor. Ricardo Aguilar, who took the reins at Carmel Valley Ranch, expressed the beauty of simplicity. Berk Guvenc, new owner of the longtime P.G. favorite Passionfish, said he intends to stick with the restaurant’s legacy. Chef Michael Rotondo at Coastal Kitchen in Monterey dared to elevate brunch to the prix fixe level, somehow managing to create a fine dining experience without losing the eggs benedict soul of the meal. Despite all of that, there was some ferment in 2024. Solstice opened at the end of June in The Village, an upscale development in Big Sur. And Chef Tim Eelman attends to sourcing, technique and presentation with great zealotry. The dishes are dazzling canvases. Nothing here is for a pedestrian disposition. But It was a brewpub that made the biggest splash. When Hops & Fog Brewing Company poured a West Coast IPA from its own tanks on Sept. 18, it marked an historic first. Less than a decade ago, Pacific Grove had never allowed an establishment that tallied more sales in alcohol than food. Now the famously once-dry town had a brewery serving its own beers on tap. “The community support has been incredible,” brewer Mike Durrant said. As in every year, culinary trends take shape. One was expressed by Chef Basarov who, in sculpting a menu where Macedonian or Croatian favorites shared space with Americanisms like the burger, said, “If we want to do a mish-mash, we’re going to do that.” So it is not surprising to see Chinese and Cajun served at Juicy Crab in Seaside, or Italian and Indian flavors vying for attention at East West Pizza, also in Seaside. The notion is not new to 2024, yet it was readily evident. Called in to help a struggling Carmel Burger Bar, Ashley Wolff ran with the idea, opening the Korean Jeju Kitchen, while keeping the American lineup on the menu. Wolff points out that one of the favorite dishes at Jeju Kitchen is jajangmyeon, a noodle bowl draped in a swarthy black bean sauce that ripples with earthiness. It’s Korean comfort fare. Growing interest in Korean flavors is another trend that continued in 2024. Bulgogi House opened in downtown Monterey in 2023, replacing a sushi counter. This year, owner Max Hong transformed his Seaside ramen spot, Kokoro Bowls & Rolls, into BaDa Korean Kitchen. “Everyone knows Japanese food,” he recalls thinking. “I want to serve Korean food.” As in any year, there are troubling moments. In January, the U.S. Department of Justice issued an indictment charging caterer Dory Ford, of Aqua Terra Culinary, with alleged fraud amounting to approximately $4 million. And there have been some notable closures—LouLou’s Griddle in the Middle on Monterey’s Wharf 2 and Coast Big Sur among them. At the same time, the county welcomed a diverse new slate: the wine education and tasting spot LadySomm in Carmel, Piccolo in Monterey, with a focus on paninis, the eclectic boba place Congo Go in Seaside and many more. We will see what 2025 brings. FIRST COURSE Solstice in Big Sur showcases local and seasonal ingredients as art forms. It was one of the venues that made news in 2024. BAR BACK…Two weeks after the California Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control suspended the liquor license of the owner of Britannia Arms, the downtown Monterey pub is up for sale. The asking price is $995,000. HOT CHICKZ…Angry Chickz, a California-based, Nashville-inspired hot chicken restaurant chain, is finally serving Salinas. The grand opening takes place on Friday, Dec. 13 starting at 11am. They will be giving away all kinds of perks, like free Angry Chickz for a year. 1816 North Main St., Suite A, Salinas. angrychickz.com. SPRINKLES FORECAST…Let your artistic talents shine at Sweet Elena’s Bakery’s cookie decorating classes. They are hosting two Saturday sessions from 11am-2pm, Dec. 14 and Dec. 2. Participants will decorate gingerbread and shortbread cookies of different shapes with eight colors of frosting and sprinkles. Sip homemade hot cocoa while getting in the merry spirit. $28.50 per set-up. Kits can be shared; additional hot cocoas are $5. 465 Olympia Ave., Sand City. 393-2063, sweetelenas.com. GETTING UGLY…Put on your ugliest sweater and your walking shoes for the Ugly Sweater Poker Walk on Saturday, Dec. 14. Participants start at Animal Friends and Rescue Project’s office then stroll to four beloved Pacific Grove spots, Hops & Fog, Pop and Hiss, The PG Meetinghouse and The Monarch Pub, where they will be dealt a card for their poker hand. Prizes for the five best poker hands and the ugliest sweaters. $25; register at events.humanitix.com. Walk begins at AFRP, 161 Fountain Ave., Pacific Grove. 333-0722, animalfriendsrescue.org. DRINK WITH PRIDE…Odonata Winery hosts a queer social mixer on Sunday, Dec. 15 from 1-4pm to support Salinas Valley Pride Celebrations. Come and mingle, play games and have great wine, with 10 percent of sales donated to the nonprofit. 645 River Road, Salinas. 566-5147, odonatawines.com. DECK THE PAWS…House of Fuchsia by the Sea hosts a holiday tea soirée on Thursday, Dec. 19 from 5-7pm to benefit Max’s Helping Paws. Sip a variety of artisanal teas from ZumZum Tea, and savor seasonal treats from Little Fig Kitchen, Tala Baking Co. and The Mad Batter. $100. The event takes place at a private residence in Pebble Beach; address provided to ticketholders. houseoffuchsiabythesea.com. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “If we want to do a mish-mash, we’re going to do that.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Rear View A quick look back at the names and trends that made 2024 in Monterey County. By Dave Faries
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