46 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY november 28-december 4, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com On the Thursday before Thanksgiving, Debbie Beron at La Sala’s Bi-Rite Market in Monterey did something unusual, at least for the popular neighborhood deli. “People kept asking for cranberry sauce, so I went out and bought a jar,” she says. Nothing out of the ordinary, really. But Bi-Rite does not keep the dressing in stock behind the counter. Customers can select from deli standards—turkey, ham, salami, roast beef—adorned with familiar condiments. But on this particular day, Beron assembled a hot turkey sandwich with provolone and cranberry sauce. Contrary to the doubts of her coworkers, the simple sandwich sold out. While she says its popularity did not come as a surprise to her, Beron understands why others at Bi-Rite had low expectations. “Turkey is on the menu all year long,” she explains. “It doesn’t sell any more than normal [at Thanksgiving].” Indeed, according to data from Nielsen, turkey is the leading deli meat when measured by dollar sales, besting ham and roast beef with a market of over $16 billion for turkey sandwich products. One would easily imagine that, with Thanksgiving dinner looming, the tendency of consumers would be to look for something different. After all, the big dinner is followed by a general anticipation of leftovers. People get creative, making deep-fried tacos stuffed with turkey, enchiladas prepared like a casserole, turkey egg rolls and more. But there is an obvious favorite, perhaps for its ease. “The ultimate is the two to three hours later turkey sandwich,” says Chef Todd Fisher of The Meatery in Seaside. Instead of diners being burned out in advance, however, the lead-up to Thanksgiving brings out a craving for the bird. As a result, Arby’s rolled out a selection of holiday sandwiches in 2017 and have been doing so ever since. The Bob Evans chain introduced a Thanksgiving sandwich two years ago. Firehouse Subs now advertises its Thanksgiving Turkey Sub. At Erik’s DeliCafé in Seaside, the seasonal special features sliced turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce—a simple combination of traditions. The mellow tang of the meat eases into the bracing, bittersweet sauce. Seasoned stuffing prevents the cranberries from romping over the palate. Earthy and nutty, with gentle waves of grassy herbs, the stuffing complements white meat while reining in the rich fruit savor of the sauce. It’s a well considered sandwich. There were no turkey sandwiches on The Meatery’s menu the week before Thanksgiving. But Fisher wasn’t ignoring the trend. Besides preparing almost 200 birds for customer pick-up, his team was stocking the shelves with 800 containers of side dishes. According to a 2023 survey of trend surveys by Restaurant Business, 23 percent of Americans celebrating the holiday—and that’s an overwhelming plurality, although not all serve turkey—purchase complete takeaway meals from restaurants, while 22 percent prefer to cook their own bird, but buy the trimmings. Actually, a survey by the soup and packaged foods company Campbell’s found that 40 percent of Americans would be happy to fill up on sides— stuffing in particular—and skip the turkey. Either way, with all of that work going on, Fisher had not had time to add a sandwich to the deli lineup until two days before the holiday, starting Tuesday, Nov. 26. (Fisher is also offering a turducken sausage, a nod to the curiosity that NFL legend John Madden made famous on Thanksgiving Day football telecasts.) So the approaching holiday becomes a trigger. In noting the oneoff turkey sandwich on the specials board, the Bi-Rite crew labeled it “Thanksgiving Turkey Sandwich.” “Customers saw that and they wanted it,” Beron observes. Beron is convinced that customers look forward to Thanksgiving through food. And in foodservice, the customer comes first. “I’m going to try it again,” she says. Heeding how quickly the first sandwich sold out, she adds: “I might buy two jars [of cranberry sauce]. You have to get in the holiday spirit.” First course The Total Turkey Feast, a seasonal sandwich special at Erik’s DeliCafé in Seaside. It’s one of many local options that put Thanksgiving between slices of bread. Small Talk…The Wine House is hosting a Small Business Saturday popup on Saturday, Nov. 30 from 1-5pm, with live music from 3-5pm. It’s a great opportunity to multitask. Sip their selection of wine and beer while you shop for jewelry, ceramics, vintage wear and more from local vendors. 1 E. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 298-7438, thewinehousecv.com. Shop, Don’t Drop…Food and shopping seems to be a theme this time of year. The Marina Chamber of Commerce is holding a Holiday Bazaar on Saturday, Nov. 30 from 10am-4pm. Expect vendors selling locally produced arts and crafts, as well as entertainment. There will also be food trucks on hand for those important shopping breaks. The event takes place rain or shine (see more information in Hot Picks, p. 36). 192 Paddon Place, Marina. marinachamber.com. Platter Matter…Whether you’re hosting or attending a holiday get-together, you will be everyone’s favorite if you provide a dessert tray—and you can save yourself the hassle of preparing said tray by letting Freedom Bakery make one for you. Trays come in a variety of sizes and range in price from $68-$210. Orders must be placed at least three days in advance. 305 Webster St., Monterey. 722-5223, freedombakery.com. Skip To My LouLou’s…A longtime breakfast spot, LouLou’s Griddle in the Middle, announced on Nov. 21 that they are closed for good. The restaurant’s landlord, the City of Monterey, said LouLou’s management declined to negotiate a new lease, and instead opted to shut down before the end of their current lease on Dec. 31. “We were as surprised as the public in hearing the news about the closure of LouLou’s,” Monterey’s Leasing and Property Manager Janna Aldrete said. The enormous pancakes at LouLou’s were the first food recommendation I received on moving to Monterey, and this gem on Wharf 2 will be greatly missed. Bar None…There is another Monterey closure as of Nov. 21 at Britannia Arms, whose liquor license was revoked. According to the state’s Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control, the measure was taken due to the Alvarado Street restaurant “operating a disorderly house which created a law enforcement problem.” The suspension is indefinite; owner Paul Whitecross can request a stay of 180 days to transfer the license. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “You have to get in the holiday spirit.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Turkey Talk While the bird is a year-round deli staple, Thanksgiving sandwiches have a special appeal. By Dave Faries
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