28 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY November 28-december 4, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com ies. By the 1990s, he writes, estimates of the distance food traveled from farm to table fell between 1,200 and 1,700 miles. “Over the past 20 to 30 years the pendulum swung back to the middle, a mix of local and national,” Cohen observes. “The big boys have realized they need local products.” If so, they are following the lead of neighborhood markets like Nielsen Brothers and Bruno’s Market & Deli in Carmel, Star Market in Salinas and Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market. “It’s great for our customers,” says Dolata. She estimates that Elroy’s stocks almost 100 local labels, double that when including produce. As research suggests, while not every customer looks to buy products made in the county, a growing number seek to support artisanal producers and small farmers. “I consider it fine food,” she adds. And, Cohen notes, “It’s a great way to differentiate yourself from the chains.” Having a presence on grocery shelves can be an important step for small businesses, as well. In 2023, Carlo Overhulser’s Big Sur Salts made and sold some 23,000 pounds of sea salt nationwide. “Retail is our bread and butter,” Overhulser explains. His product is used at some destination restaurants, the kind bearing Michelin stars. But he downplays the importance of that when it comes to gaining consumer attention. “How many people are going to see us [at a restaurant]?” he asks. “They’re going to see us at Elroy’s.” He remembers starting out a decade ago as an unknown. A few newspapers found him, followed by Edible Monterey Bay, which ran a full-color feature. “I had to get the website built before that article came out,” he says. “I had to learn all of that, and it sucked.” ✦ One obstacle to cottage foods landing on market shelves is inexperience on the business side. Grocers look for packaging that will catch the eye of a passing shopper, labels with barcodes to make transactions smoother. Cottage labels are also in competition with larger brands for shelf space. While Star Market or Elroy’s may encourage local producers, the owners are unlikely to bump a popular product to make way. There are other matters, too, such as consistent production. “Sometimes they don’t realize how big a job it is,” Dolata points out. She tells of putting in a reorder from one local artisan, only to hear excuses—or no response at all—when they couldn’t keep pace. “Maybe they don’t realize that each spot on my shelf costs money if it’s empty.” The quality control aspect troubles Sugar Science’s Runde, which is part of what makes farmers markets and online orders more of a certainty, planning-wise. Her baked goods may have a shelf life of no more than three days. “I did a trial and error of what works,” she says. “I don’t want anyone to have a subpar experience.” Marketing, however, is often the most obvious shortcoming—or least obvious, perhaps, when it comes to labels that are difficult to find outside of farmers markets. “I’m finding this in a lot of up-and-coming brands,” Overhulser notes. “They are really good products, but they lack marketing.” His standard question, when speaking publicly on the matter, is about the goal in opening a cottage kitchen. Essentially, it’s a question of where the person wants to be, growing as a company or selling a few items on the side. For the former, there is a tried and true formula that works, even in a digital age, Overhulser says. “You have to have a social media presence, you have to buy ads,” he explains. When a market like Jerome’s or Nielsen Brothers reaches out, he adds, you need to respond quickly: “If you’re not all over that, it’s going to be very slow.” Runde is one who prefers a more measured approach. Her goal is to develop a restaurant clientele. And her farmers market regulars provided the name for Sugar Science’s “Epic Brownies.” “I think farmers markets are the way to go,” Runde says. “I have a lot of customers.” A year before the pandemic, the USDA reported that sales at farmers markets had flattened out. Those issuing the study reasoned that more local products reaching grocery shelves was the cause. A glance at neighborhood markets indicates that there is considerable interest in local goods. When the Murillos at Windmill Market have bread from Ad Astra or pasta from Bigoli in stock, “It flies off the shelves,” Renee points out. Which brings up an interesting entrepreneurial what if—a market that specialized in Monterey County items. “That would be really cool,” Dolata says. “THE BIG BOYS HAVE REALIZED THEY NEED LOCAL PRODUCTS.” Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm and Mon 4-9pm Or order to-go,and take it home 2149 N. Fremont St. • Monterey • 831-642-9900 MontereyCookHouse.com What s Cooking Authentic Italian Am ican Cuisine Custom Desigg! Repairs! Finished Jewelrr! Watch Baaeries! Lapidarr Serrices! Appraisals! Local Arrists Specimens Supplies & More 2245 Norrh Fremont St, Monterey (831)375-3027 www.peninsulagemandjewelrr.com Tuesday-Friday 10-5:30 Sattrday 10-4:00
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