40 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY november 14-20, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com A phrase not often heard in Monterey County—or anywhere in the U.S., for that matter—is “Let’s go out for some Welsh food.” Of course, whether restaurants with specifically Welsh menus exist on this side of the Atlantic is a matter of conjecture. Some sources claim there are six, although one of those is clearly a Memphis-style barbecue joint. But that could change once people flip through Green Dragon Pie: The Cuisine and Culture of Wales, a new cookbook by Carmel resident Olivia Romano Morgan. It’s a delightfully unusual collection. Not only does one find recipes for dishes both familiar (leek and potato soup) and obscure, but readers are also sent on a tour through towns like Pwllheli, Llandeilo and Harlech, as well as provided glimpses into the lore of the region. “I didn’t want to write just a cookbook,” Morgan says. “There’s a lot of culture in that little book. It makes me homesick.” The author grew up in Swansea in the 1940s and ’50s, coming to the U.S. in 1961. She bristles when people hear her accent and mistake her for British. “I’m Welsh,” she says. “There’s a big distinction.” What sets the cuisine apart, she explains, are the pockets of regional dishes that have not found a broader audience. Bara lawr, or laver bread, is one such recipe. “It looks awful, it sounds awful, but it’s absolutely delicious,” Morgan observes. Laver bread is not included in Green Dragon Pie. Nor are some of the dishes with names that would raise modern eyebrows, such as spotted dick. Morgan also opted to skip perhaps the most well-known, rarebit (“It’s so basic,” she explains). The thread connecting recipes throughout the book is personal. “Some are from family,” Morgan says. “All of them have a link to my childhood.” One labeled “Hole-in-the-Wall Sausage Bliss” was the only dish served at a cramped cafe of 12 chairs run by a woman of unknown age in Gwernogle. When she died, the unwritten recipe went with her. Morgan tells how the family struggled to recreate the dish. Green dragon pie—the book’s namesake—is a hearty vegetarian staple associated with select pubs. Morgan struggles to settle on a favorite. “I can’t imagine anyone in my family making pasties,” she admits with a sigh. “It’s labor intensive. Good cooking always is.” Passion is evident in both the recipes and the memories. Green Dragon Pie is a cookbook one can read and savor. “I’m very proud of it, I must admit,” she says. Green Dragon Pie: The Cuisine and Culture of Wales is available at River House Books, 208 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 626-2665. Also available online. First course “A passion for cooking—the extra time they take,” is part of what Olivia Romano Morgan says sets Welsh cuisine apart. Hot Read…Cookbook author Caroline Chambers is stopping by the Monterey Public Library on Saturday, Nov. 16 for a Books and Cooks talk. This is an opportunity to chat with her and get a copy of What To Cook When You Don’t Feel Like Cooking. Tickets are $50 and include a copy of her super helpful book. 625 Pacific St., Monterey. 646-3933, monterey.gov/library. Red (Wine) Carpet…Wine and fashion come together on Saturday, Nov. 16 as LadySomm and Patrick James host Food, Wine & Fashion. Wear cocktail attire, because wine attire…? The fun starts at 1pm. Tickets are $150. 3728 The Barnyard, Carmel. 295-0612, ladysomm.com. Hi Tea…Wine and fashion not your thing? How about tea and scones. Chef Karen Anne Murray talks about her book Tea Table on Sunday, Nov. 17 at 1pm, hosted by River House Books. 208 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 626-2665. Tastes Grape…Looking for wines fit for the holidays? Amapola Kitchen & Wine Merchant hosts a tasting on Sunday, Nov. 17 featuring bottles from around the world. Seatings at 1pm and 3pm. $45. 32 W. Gabilan St., Salinas. amapolakitchenandwine.com. Mix(ology) Master…The final round of The Links Club’s Battle of the Bartenders takes place on Monday, Nov. 18. Come watch the finalists compete in mixology challenges and taste their masterpieces. $50/in advance, $60/day of. Carmel Plaza, Ocean and Mission, Carmel. 250-7816, linksclubgolf.com. Turkey Day…Thanksgiving is coming, but not every family can afford all the fixin’s. That’s where Chris Shake, Sabu JR Shake, The Salvation Army and you come into play. Old Fisherman’s Grotto and The Fish Hopper have teamed with the nonprofit to provide a turkey or ham to families in need. Your role? Donate $20 to make it happen. Call 3722406 or email adminfh@fishhopper.com. Bread Man…Otto’s Bread Company’s in-store Friday operations have been such a success that they expanded their hours. They are now open Wednesdays and Thursdays (in addition to Fridays) from 7am-4pm. 215 Monterey St., Salinas. Not Crabby…Due to the continued presence of humpback whales in Monterey Bay, this year’s Dungeness crab fishing season has been delayed, as it has been for the last seven years. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Jones-ing A local woman puts the spotlight on Welsh recipes and culture in a new cookbook. By Dave Faries Toad in the Hole (Serves 2-4) Ingredients 4 large sausages—pork is best 4 tbsp. olive oil 1 cup whole milk 3 large eggs 1 cup all purpose flour 1/2 tsp ground mustard 1 tsp thyme 2 tbsp melted butter Dash or two of salt and pepper Preparation In a large bowl, whisk together the flour with the salt and pepper. Make a well in the center of the flour. Pour in the eggs, milk and melted butter into the well and whisk into the flour until smooth. Cover and let stand 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Oven must be very hot when sausage/batter goes into the oven. Brown sausages in olive oil. Grease an 8-inch, 12-inch or 9-by-9-inch metal or ceramic dish (not glass). Put browned sausages in dish and pour in batter. Turn oven down to 425 degrees. Bake between 20 to 30 minutes until the batter is golden and risen. Serve as soon as possible.
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