46 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY october 10-16, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com The language spoken at Castroville’s Patio Drive In is burger. Not the patties piled high for show and tell, but honest burgers suited to chrome bumpers and AM radio. There is a memory to them, one of the simple satisfaction from the brusque savor of ground beef under the crisp, sweet bite of lettuce, tomato and onion. It’s the flavor of the 1960s, the burger of the American identity. And it is prepared by a Korean couple. Husband Sung Jo works the counter, over which is posted directions on how to order. Wife Hawn Yong Jo works the well-seasoned flat top grill—the weathered drive-in has been around since the beginning of the ’60s, with recipes passed down through two previous owners, all Korean. “My dad loves burgers,” says Ahra Jo. “He eats burgers every single day.” Sung Jo will try them topped by an avocado, stacked three deep or spiked with heat, and the menu at Patio Drive In reflects this. But he also goes oldschool—a patty and cheese on a bun. When the couple came to the U.S., he was set on the American dream. “He wanted to own a restaurant with a burger that he liked,” Ahra explains. And he wanted to continue the restaurant’s unusual ownership history. Ahra Jo tells the story because her parents’ grasp of English is limited to the drive-in’s lingo. Ordering is a perfunctory process—“Cheese?” “Drink?”— but they rarely miss a step. Still, Ahra says that some customers are frustrated by the language barrier (something that has grown over recent years, she points out; the Jo family has owned Patio Drive In for over 15 years). The couple remain upbeat, however. It’s clear they have a lot of support from regulars, too. When lunch break comes, the parking lot fills up quickly. And customers are willing to wait, some with a soft-serve ice cream cone in hand, because everything is cooked to order. Patio Drive In is a throwback in many ways. The drive-in is a reflection of the era when the expanding network of highways put Americans on the road—and when dining in the car was a welcome convenience, thanks in part to broad bench-style front seats. Many featured outside wait staff, or carhops. All posted menu boards outside. Drive-through windows—which first appeared in the 1940s but found fast-food ubiquity in the mid-1970s— largely killed the drive-in. But Patio customers still put the order window to use. And because indoor seating is limited, many return to their cars with their orders. There are other options on the menu besides the list of burgers. One that receives popular attention is teriyaki, with a choice of chicken, beef or short ribs. Ahra warns that their version is not Americanized—the meat is marinated and grilled simply rather than sauced up. A basic side of lettuce salad is, however, thoroughly doused with a creamy, tangy, but not overbearing house-made dressing. “People love the sauce,” she says. “Everyone asks [for the recipe], but I can’t tell.” Still, it’s hard to get past the burger lineup. There are 12 options, from the basic quarter-pound patty on a sesame seed bun to the signature Patio burger featuring two patties on a toasted French roll, to versions with bacon, chili or avocado and the usual selection of toppings. The fries show a deft hand—crispy, with a nice spark of salt. Yes, the restaurant does offer a vegetarian burger. No, they don’t get fancy with cheese. If you want it, the cheese will be American. “We tweak the burgers a little as time goes by,” Ahra says, though it might be difficult to believe. Trends change, so avocado or an organic egg gets added to the list, as well as a hot sauce that comes with a series of warnings. Yet there is nothing outlandish. What stands out at first glance is that only the King burger (a threestack with an organic egg, bacon and avocado) tops the $10 mark. So Patio Drive In is a deal, one where people rediscover the wonder of burger simplicity, the time-tested perfection of beef, lettuce, tomato, onion or whatever one’s preference, provided it does not push the old-fashioned roadside diner limits too far. Oh, and a shake or ice cream cone. “It’s a must after a burger,” Ahra says. And all of that speaks well. Patio Drive In 11616 Merritt St., Castroville. 633-2178, patiodriveinca.my.canva.site. First course Hawn Yong and Sung Jo in the narrow kitchen of Patio Drive In, which often gets busy. “That’s the thing I love, it’s all made to order,” says their daughter, Ahra Jo. Drink Pink…Given that October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, McIntyre Vineyards is donating 15 percent and Scheid Vineyards is donating 10 percent of sales from their respective Rosés of Pinot Noir to the Breast Cancer Assistance Group Monterey County during the month. McIntyre is at 24 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 5743042, mcintyrevineyards. Scheid is at San Carlos and 7th, Carmel, 626-9463; and 1972 Hobson Ave., Greenfield, 3860316. scheidvineyards.com. Something Brewing…The inaugural Point Lobos Foundation Brew By The Bay benefit is on Saturday, Oct. 12 from 12:30-4:30pm at Custom House Plaza in Monterey, and will be just like it sounds. Brews. Bay. No false advertising. Enjoy unlimited homebrew tastings in your commemorative event glass until 3:30pm, as well as local bites and live music. Tickets are $60 in advance, $70 at the gate. 649-2836, pointlobos.org. Got It Made…Carmel has wine. Carmel has art. Put the two together and on Saturday, Oct. 12 you have the fifth annual Meet The Makers Art & Wine Walk. Participants will start in Devendorf Park then stroll the streets of Carmel from 4-7pm while popping in to participating tasting rooms and galleries to meet the makers, sip local wines, peruse local art, and nibble on local goodies. $45 per person, which includes wine tasting. Proceeds go to the Monterey Wines Scholarship Fund. carmelcalifornia.com. Disco Bites…Compact Disco is starting a unique dining experience series, the first of which is on Sunday, Oct. 13, outside on Stokes Adobe’s patio. From 4-7pm guests will indulge in gourmet passed bites, a glass of bubbles and a special cocktail created just for the occasion, plus an invite to the afterparty at Compact Disco. $100. Stokes Adobe is at 500 Hartnell St., Monterey. 264-8775, stokesadobe. com. Compact Disco is at 420 Tyler St., Monterey. 920-2518, compactdisco.org. Sparkling Sea…While it may not be the most common combo, you must admit sushi and Champagne is a great one. Toro Sushi is partnering with Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte to present a bubbly dinner on Tuesday, Oct. 15. Guests will experience six courses, starting with an oyster paired with Nicolas Feuillatte’s iconic Blue Label Champagne. $175. Dolores Street between 5th and 6th, Carmel. 5743255, torosushicarmel.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “He eats burgers every single day.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Road Ways Not much has changed at Patio Drive In over the decades, and nostalgia can be a good thing. By Dave Faries
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