38 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY september 19-25, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com Perhaps you’ve experienced the reaction, one of eager expectation, the other with a scrunched expression and dismissive wave. That both are in response to a porridge of ground corn says something about culinary bias at any given time. Before trends turned to roots cooking, many Americans scorned humble staples of the poor, rural South. Greens such as collards, turnip, mustard and even kale were out. And grits? Not a chance—although the same people loved polenta. As diners rediscover soul food, however, the lowly porridge is returning to the menus of sit-down restaurants. The lowcountry breakfast tradition of shrimp and grits has become a dinner favorite, found at many area restaurants. Deja Blue in Seaside adds catfish and grits to the repertoire. But at the ritzy steakhouse Seventh & Dolores in Carmel, Chef Raymundo Aquino prepares grits as a standalone—albeit a side dish, but still unusual from an upscale kitchen. “Not everyone has it,” Aquino says with a shrug, explaining his reason for placing grits on a menu where cuts of steak approach triple digits in price. “If you have a steak, the grits are amazing.” Filling, too. Aquino works in equal parts heavy cream and water. The result is pure opulence, as butter, cream and cheese drape over the palate. The chef prefers white cheddar, brought to the mix just minutes before serving to preserve its elegant tang and subtle chalkiness. The plush charm of the cream complements the natural sweetness of corn. It’s a revelation—the corn mush that was fodder for struggling sharecroppers can be sublime. Seventh & Dolores’ general manager, Rigo Garcia, chuckles at the thought. He admits steakhouses tend to be stuffy, particularly with their menus. They even considered making a change where grits were concerned. “People rave about them,” Garcia says, noting that when one diner learned of the plan, she stomped in dismay, “No! Don’t change it.” Over the years, grits have suffered from an image problem, created in part by the general adoration of Italian dishes and the misconceptions long doled onto rural Southern fare. But the processed quick grits that are so easy to find on grocery shelves (and in diner kitchens) caused the real damage. Instant grits are ground fine to shorten reheating times, cooked and dehydrated. Wan and lacking in flavor, they turned people away from the staple. In many ways, the story of the South can be told through grits, or so Erin Byers Murray suggests in Grits: A Cultural Journey through the South. “Name any dish that is considered Southern, trace it back far enough, and you will unearth stories of theft, slavery, appropriation, and loss—as well as evolution, culture melding, and hope,” she wrote. “As grits traveled and transformed, they carried the region’s stories with them.” European settlers were introduced to ground corn porridge by the indigenous peoples of what became the southeastern U.S. It became a cheap meal for both Black and white communities. Traditionally, the dried corn or hominy was milled once, creating a coarse grain. Dent corn contains more starch, and ends up softer than polenta, which is from the flint variety and milled finer for a texture that can be brought to al dente. But the differences between the two are small. Most noticeable, perhaps, is that the earthen sweetness of corn is more pronounced in artisanal grits. Aquino has experience with both and says one must tend to polenta differently, taking time. “Grits are easy— 20 to 25 minutes,” he continues. Yet they are also challenging. The balance of liquids must be right. Aquino came to Seventh & Dolores with the technique mastered, including regular whisking. “I was used to it,” he points out. “But it’s hard to teach others how to cook them.” First it was kale, followed by collards. Chefs began looking into other fundamentals of the rural South, including the “snout to tail” ethic of a people with little excess. Paired with shrimp, ham or other items, grits began entering the conversation. At Seventh & Dolores, there is no need for such distraction. “It’s so rich and creamy,” Aquino says. Seventh & Dolores, 7th Avenue and Dolores Street, Carmel. 293-7600, 7dsteakhouse.com. First course A bowl of grits on the side is an “amazing” pairing with steak, even when frites are involved, says Seventh & Dolores chef Raymundo Aquino. Mug Club…The original local brewery, English Ales, just celebrated 24 years on Sept. 13 and the owners announced they are ready to retire and the business is for sale. “Our hope is that it sells to someone who loves the pub like we do, and that English Ales will live on,” they wrote. Here’s to the past and to the future—and to the present, when you can still get a pint and a burger. 223 Reindollar Ave., Marina. 8833000, englishalesbrewery.com. Place Setting…Something new has arrived in Marina courtesy of Maido Catering, which has been serving Japanese food like sushi rolls and teriyaki bowls for over 20 years, has opened a brick-and-mortar. Stop by Maido Sushi Café 11am-7pm Thursday through Monday. 265 Reservation Road, Marina. maidocatering.wixsite.com/website. Bicentennial Celebration… Casa Munras is celebrating 200 years with a bicentennial birthday bash. Join them on Saturday, Sept. 21 for an afternoon of Spanish-inspired fun complete with flamenco dancing, music, paella and more. The event starts at 2pm and birthday cake will be cut and served at 4pm. $65; free for ages 12 and under. 700 Munras Ave., Monterey. 375-2411, hotelcasamunras.com. Join The Cru…CRU Winery hosts a chowder cookoff from noon-3pm on Saturday, Sept. 21 at its Santa Lucia Highlands tasting room. Sample chowders and enjoy live music and, of course, great wine. $55. 37500 Foothill Road, Soledad. 678-0300, cruwinery.com. Pressing Party…What says fall more than apple cider? How about an apple cider pressing party? Happy Girl Kitchen is hosting one on Saturday, Sept. 21 from 10am-4pm. Lend a hand pressing apples to live music and receive a complimentary cup of cider to reward yourself for your hard work. 173 Central Ave., Pacific Grove. 373-4475, happygirlkitchen.com. Oktoberfest…It’s September, and that means Oktoberfest. Peter B’s celebrates Sept. 21-Oct. 6 with German foods, live music and a beer crafted just for the party. Have a pair of lederhosen? That will get you 15-percent off food. JC Hill of Alvarado Street Brewery went a step further, spending months studying beer in Germany. He brewed several styles for ASB’s event, Sept. 21, with German foods at all three locations. Find out more at portolahotel.com (Peter B’s) and asb.beer (Alvarado Street). By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “As grits traveled, they carried the region’s stories.” Eat + DrinK Dave Faries True Grits Long snubbed as an inferior dish, a Southern staple is slowly becoming national. By Dave Faries
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