38 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY september 12-18, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com For generations, Monterey Bay’s identity was inseparable from fishing. It was a backbone of the local economy, particularly in the City of Monterey, where it inspired one of John Steinbeck’s most famous novels, Cannery Row. But fishing practices were often unsustainable, and sardine and abalone populations plummeted. Today, there are no canneries on Cannery Row, no fishermen at Fisherman’s Wharf. So in many ways, Monterey’s identity as a fishing community has become little more than a facade, a brand to attract tourists to districts lined with candy shops and restaurants. Local fishermen, in turn, are far fewer than in the industry’s heyday, and those still hanging on are increasingly faced with unpredictable closures as regulators strive to protect marine life. Climate change has also played a role, as droughts have impacted salmon runs up creeks and warmer waters off the coast have created algal blooms that can lead to a buildup of toxic domoic acid in the flesh of shellfish, which then become unsafe for humans to eat. So what can be done? Enter Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust, a nonprofit formed in 2014 with the goal of ensuring the region maintains a viable and sustainable fishing industry, and to find ways to help bring local fish to local consumers. And what exactly that looks like has taken many forms: Initially, The Nature Conservancy divested more $1 million of its fishing rights for groundfish and gave them to MBFT. The trust then bought up more groundfish fishing rights from local fishermen—quotas, a finite regulatory commodity—to lease to local fishermen to prevent them from being snagged by bigger fishery operations in Washington state. At the time, many local fishermen were in dire financial straits after groundfish populations on the West Coast reached record lows in the late ’90s, which led to the federal government to declare the fishery a disaster. Melissa Mahoney, who came on as MBFT’s executive director in 2022, says the trust was able to keep all the locally owned quotas local, with the exception of one Moss Landing fisherman who had already sold. Much of what the nonprofit focuses on today is advocacy, and being a one-stop shop to keep local fishermen informed about potential new regulations. This past June, Mahoney offered strident testimony to the Pacific Fishery Management Council, asking them not to close two regions in Monterey Bay near Santa Cruz to bottom-contact fishing gear, as they are vital to many local fishermen (the closure was proposed to protect corals as a mitigation for non-fishing related damage to corals off of Half Moon Bay). The council voted 7-6 to keep those two spots open. MBFT has also been ensuring local seafood can reach local people: the nonprofit organizes “Get Hooked” dinners at local restaurants nearly every month, in which local seafood is on the menu. “In the same way you love your local farmer, you’ve got to love your local fisherman,” Mahoney says. “In big picture terms, it’s really about continuing to grow, building the local seafood movement, and really doubling down and strengthening local seafood businesses.” Many restaurants in Monterey County feature seafood pulled from the bay. When dungeness crab season opened, for instance, Paluca Trattoria on Fisherman’s Wharf served crab that had been hauled in only minutes before. Margaret Spring, chief conservation and science officer at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, is one of MBFT’s founding board members. She says the trust’s goal is that it will one day no longer be needed if the trust “sets the table” by revitalizing the connections that make a vibrant fishing community. “[Local] seafood supports people and their jobs, it’s an economic driver, and it supports tourism,” she says. It is on this footing that MBFT is celebrating its 10th anniversary at the Memory Garden in Monterey on Sept. 29. The event will feature chefs serving local seafood; there will also be local beer and wine, live music and more. “It’s nice to have a story not about decline,” Spring says, “but about recovery.” Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust 10-year anniversary celebration takes place 4-7pm Sunday, Sept. 29. $125. 233-3101, montereybayfisheriestrust.org. First course Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust celebrates 10 years of aiding the local seafood industry with a celebration on Sept. 29. Key Decision…Osteria Al Mare took over the downstairs space at the foot of the Coast Guard Pier and has soft-launched a new, more casual, more lunch-y spot: Piccolo. They serve a selection of paninis made with homemade bread, salads, soups and desserts. Open 10:30am-5:30pm. 32 Cannery Row, Monterey. On The Vine…Harvest and party are not usually words that go together—until now. Albatross Ridge Estate winery hosts a harvest party on Saturday, Sept. 14 from 2-5pm. That means food from Seastar Catering (Chef Paul Corsentino!), live music, bike rides through the vines and, of course, great wine. $100 for wine club members, $150 for non-members. albatrossridge.com. Viva Mexico…Cinco de Mayo is just a preliminary. Fiestas Patrias es la real deal. C Restaurant + Bar celebrates Mexican independence and heritage with a party on Sunday, Sept. 15 from noon-4pm. There will be street tacos, specialty cocktails with Don Julio tequila (a ticket comes with two drinks), a mariachi band and lots of fun. Space is limited, so act fast. $75. 750 Cannery Row, Monterey. 642-2013, thecrestaurant-monterey.com. All That, And Jazz…Normally a six-course dinner at Portola Hotel & Spa would be enough of a draw. But on Sept. 20, the Portola hosts a six-course dinner paired with Bernardus wine and live jazz—and that’s not all. Jazz legend Darin Atwater (think Emmy Award) is the guest speaker, so you can understand why reservations are required. It all goes down in the Bonsai Ballroom at 6pm. $95 plus gratuity. 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. 649-7870, portolahotel.com. Take Your Pick…Freedom Bakery of Watsonville has opened a bakery boutique in downtown Monterey. This location is different from the original in that they don’t offer walk-in purchases. Instead they offer specialty and custom baked goods to be pre-ordered and picked up. 305 Webster St., Monterey. 722-5223, freedombakery.com. Havana Ooh-Na-Nosh…The next of Elroy’s Fine Foods’ Heatable Eatables series is Cuban cuisine. Order a meal for two that’s ready to be heated at home that is filled with ajiaco cubano, enchilado de camarones and more. Orders online by Thursday, Sept. 19 to pick up on Thursday, Sept. 26 from 10am-6pm. 15 Soledad Drive, Monterey. 373-3737, elroysfinefoods.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “You’ve got to love your local fishermen.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Go Fish As Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust turns 10, local seafood is increasingly catching on. By David Schmalz
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