32 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY AUGUST 29-SEPTEMBER 4, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com It may seem contradictory when retail sales of plant-based meats in the U.S. doubled in the short span from 2017 to 2020, but the good old days of the veggie burger appear to be just that—a fond memory. How does one consign a trend that peaked at $1.4 billion in sales to the forlorn trailings of nostalgia? Scan the menus of Monterey County restaurants and you will see trademarks next to many veggie burger listings, generally representing the highly processed patties from national brands Impossible Burger or Beyond Meat. Given the availability of ready-made patties, the house-crafted veggie burger has become something of a lost art. The brands make for an effortless way for restaurants to list a vegetarian option. “It works for them,” says Parker Fisher, manager of Bear + Flag Roadside in Carmel Valley. “We wanted to do better.” The Castroville artichoke burger at Bear + Flag takes full advantage of the local produce, but adds a southwestern flair. The burger carries a dusky swagger—rich and down to earth, it suits a flicker of smoky heat and gentle savor of artichoke. But it is dressed with a flashy zing of pickled red onions and a chow chow mayonnaise. “We realized we wanted something that stood out as a vegetarian option,” Fisher notes. “People come here for the brisket, the tri-tip. We wanted something just as good.” Melville Tavern in Monterey boasts of a house-made veggie burger. Wave Street Cafe near Cannery Row starts its version with the classic, black beans. But there’s a versatility inherent to the non-meat creation. At Sur Burger in Monterey, the hand-crafted veggie burger is formed from grains—quinoa, brown rice, oats— as well as vegetables. And it has found success pitted against the Impossible and Beyond versions, both of which are also on the menu. “Of the three, the house-made is very popular,” reports Sur Burger owner Ly Chea. “We like to have our own flavor.” Fisher concurs, citing the appeal of differing approaches to the presentation, as well as the bliss of good, natural ingredients brought together—without the need to replicate the character of ground beef. “It’s funny,” he observes. “I can’t stand the idea of Beyond or Impossible. A black bean burger, I have no problem with that.” There are indications that nostalgia for the house-made veggie burger is beginning to take hold. The processed nature of plant-based products like Impossible’s burger, which contains genetically modified elements, has stirred enough of a backlash that Bloomberg declared it “just another fad.” And a Good Food Institute study found that the market for plant-based meats stalled in 2021 and dropped by 8 percent the following year. Recipes for meat-free patties began popping up in the 1970s, although a mention of “veggie burgers” in an Arkansas newspaper in 1976 referred to a ground beef patty topped with vegetables. It wasn’t until the early 1980s that the vegetarian option started to become common at restaurants and grocers. Food historians credit English restaurateur Gregory Sams with introducing the commercially viable patty in 1982. Dubbed the VegeBurger, it contained wheat, sesame, soy and oats—gluten holding it together—as well as herbs, onion and tomato. By comparison, modern processed plant-based meats involve extracts, oils, proteins separated from vegetables and, in the case of Impossible, soy leghemoglobin drawn from soy protein and yeast engineered in the lab. Creating a veggie burger from scratch is not intuitive, however. Chea’s kitchen staff at Sur Burger tested different ingredients for several months. The Bear + Flag team toyed with a few different recipes before landing the artichoke burger, using egg and parmesan to help bind the ingredients together. “We tried to make a vegan patty, but it wasn’t consistent,” Fisher says. Still, he’s pleased with the results, and so are customers. The sandwich has been a hit on the menu since it was introduced eight months ago— although Fisher admits that carnivores are initially hesitant to give it a try. But, he adds, “it’s one of the reasons we were approached by the artichoke festival.” FIRST COURSE Some chefs are returning to the idea of crafting their own veggie burgers, such as this from Bear + Flag Roadside, made with local artichokes. DARTY PARTY…Twisted Roots Winery is hosting its inaugural Labor Day Party from 1-4pm, making it a day party (darty!), as a proper holiday celebration should be. On Monday, Sept. 2, feast on gourmet hot dogs—another proper Labor Day celebration staple— from Krusty Dogz, while shaking it to live music, and sipping their premium wines. Reservations are recommended to secure your spot. 12 Del Fino Place, Carmel Valley. 594-8282, twistedrootsvineyard.com. SEE YOU IN SEPTEMBER…Jacks Monterey is celebrating two notable local loves for the month of September. In celebration of the Monterey Jazz Festival, they host jazz nights every Thursday in September from 6-9pm. And in honor of California Wine Month, they are offering a red and a white wine flight, each with four local wines, for $20. Join in on the fun all month long. 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. 649-7830, portolahotel.com/dining/jacks-monterey. NACHO, MAN…The new owners of Nacho Bizness have added some new items to the menu like the loaded nacho dog and loaded nacho burger, both featuring jalapeño cheddar, pico de gallo, crushed nachos and more. There’s also a Mediterranean bowl and Mediterranean nachos, with halal gyro meat or pinto beans, pico de gallo and tzatziki. 470 Alvarado St., Monterey. 917-8293, nachobiz.biz. BIG BOIL…Joyce Winery’s fifth annual seafood boil takes place Saturday, Sept. 7 from noon-3pm at their Arroyo Seco estate winery location to allow more room for activities. This event has been a big hit in past years, so be sure to get tickets and get ready to slam some seafood. Tickets are $165 and include a whole lobster with all the fixings and a beer or wine. This event is family friendly, complete with a bounce house, and discounted tickets for kids. 38740 Los Coches Road, Soledad. 659-2885, joycewineco.com. QUICK TICK…Big Sur Food and Wine Festival tickets are officially on sale and going fast. The celebrations kick off on Thursday, Oct. 31 and continue through Sunday, Nov. 3. Events include small, intimate meals and some are already sold out, but there are several events with tickets still available—like the Magical Mystery Tour, the Panel Tasting, and Bubbles & Brushes. bigsurfoodandwine.org. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “A black bean burger, I have no problem with that.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Veg In A few restaurants resist the processed plant-based trend with veggie burgers made from scratch. By Dave Faries
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