38 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY august 22-28, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com Sura Ghassan’s malady is more manageable now. As a child, however, it tended to cause problems. You see, Ghassan is a chocoholic, and has been since youth. “I used to spend all of my allowance on chocolate,” she admits. Dropped off for a stay at her grandparents’ once with money in hand, Ghassan ran through it all in one day. “I was so embarrassed to ask my grandmother for money.” She has not really kicked the habit. The Defense Language Institute department chair always returns from travels with a load of chocolate, including a whole carton of Kit Kats purchased from a duty free shop on return from her last visit overseas. But recently Ghassan directed her love for the treat outward, becoming an academician by day and chocolatier at night. Sama Delights is her brand of bespoke boxed chocolates and chocolate bars that are equally art and craft. Heba, for instance, is a cube of dark chocolate with cardamom and caramel ganache on which beckons a pecan half coated in golden luster. There is an herbal and earthy dance paced to a mellow, nutty savor as the bittersweet candy vanishes on your tongue. In one bite are expressions found throughout Ghassan’s offerings. The chocolates are delicate, melting away with great ease. They are also thoughtful, in the most alluring way possible— serenity in the form of pistachio and rose petals in a plush cushion of white chocolate or lavender lending its soft perfume to rich and creamy caramel. These are not casual treats, but an embrace of the senses. In one instance a Rosé-flavored ganache sends you drifting through an inviting floral sensation. Another stirs a nostalgic reverie for s’mores. There is a gentility to her chocolate bars, as well. The caramel filling breathes opulence as it drapes over the palate, yet the flavor is almost ethereal—soothing cream with just a hint of depth as it slowly browned, with little distraction from sugar. The cashmere shell is a reminder of why milk chocolate was sought after by chocolatiers. Ghassan crafts in small batches, selling through her website, as well as at pop-up events. They can also be found on a corner table in the African goods shop Mopane in Carmel’s Crossroads shopping center. “It’s a very cool store,” she observes. Despite Ghassan’s adoration of chocolate, she was not taken by the craft at first. Originally she spent her free time baking cakes and pastries, traditional desserts from Tunisia, where Ghassan lived for 15 years. When friends began offering to pay, she expanded her operation. Elroy’s Fine Foods in Monterey now keeps her cakes in stock, or tries to. She also creates a line of delicacies without chocolate. Her venture into confections began after a friend noticed the absence in Ghassan’s dessert lineup. “That was the spark,” she says. Ghassan began testing her chocolate-making skills during Covid downtime, working with flavors familiar from her youth in Iraq and then branching out. But it was not an overnight success. “There are so many trials and errors,” she explains. “But I was determined to learn.” One immediate lesson was the difficulty of locating chocolate of great quality—her love of Kit Kats notwithstanding. Ghassan imports her stock in wafers from Belgium and Africa. When she travels, Ghassan is always sampling, looking for ideas. But she is also aware of trends. Men, she points out, tend to reach for Sea Breeze, the name given to her salted caramel version. “The cardamom is my favorite,” she adds. The feedback from those fortunate enough to try Ghassan’s chocolates has been more than encouraging. Because of the response, she is planning a series of lessons for both children and adults. And she is gaining a sense of permanence. “There’s always demand,” Ghassan observes. “That was the starting point of me thinking about a storefront. I want that to be my next adventure.” Meanwhile, devoting so much attention to the product has tamed some of Ghassan’s chocoholic tendencies. She tastes for quality control at home, but rarely indulges in a binge. Of course, the critical word is “some.” “I adore chocolate,” Ghassan says. Sama Delights is at samadelights.com. First course The chocolates and other delicacies crafted by Sura Ghassan are works of art that dazzle the eyes as well as the palate. Something’s Brewing…Rising Phoenix is officially open for business in King City. This new pizza joint and beer garden has a wide selection of beers on tap, a menu of favorite pies and plenty of outside space. Pop in, cool off, and drink up. 320 Broadway St., King City. 776-9192, instagram.com/risingphoenixtaproom. Something’s Corking…The 31st annual Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association’s Winemakers’ Celebration takes place Saturday, Aug. 24 in the streets of Carmel, on Dolores between Ocean and 7th, and around the corner to San Carlos. Stroll the streets sampling wines from over 30 local wineries and enjoy small bites from local eateries. $95 for general admission, $145 for VIP. montereywines.org/event. A Lot To Latke…Congregation Beth Israel’s annual Jewish Food Festival takes place on Sunday, Aug. 25 from 10am-3pm. Mix, mingle and help yourselves to latkes, sandwiches, egg creams and so much more traditional Jewish food. (Soak up some cultural experiences too; for more event information, see Hot Picks, p. 30.) 5716 Carmel Valley Drive, Carmel Valley. 624-2015, carmelbethisrael.org. Poor Taste…It’s time to get yourself to Taste of India because they announced they are closing at the end of the month. The last day of food service is Friday, Aug. 30 for the restaurant that launched with such promise and featured a popular buffet. 1180 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. 641-7493, tasteofindiapg.com. Pie-Eyed…Thursdays are for pizza at Other Brother Beer Co. The establishment features an impressive lineup of deep, rectangular pies from 5-9pm. They are a big hit and can sell out so don’t snooze and lose, grab those pies while you can. 877 Broadway Ave., Seaside. 747-1106, otherbrotherbeer.com. Shear Magic…Shearwater Tavern is paying homage to home with a new, seasonal cocktail menu. Sip on a Carmel Breeze, a summery mix of Kettle One vodka and fresh strawberries, or an East of Eden, with Hendrick’s Gin, cucumber and St. Germain. 3665 Rio Road (at Carmel Mission Inn), Carmel. 624-1841, shearwatertavern.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “I used to spend all my allowance on chocolate.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Bar None Finely crafted chocolate from Sama Delights are moments of heaven in small packages. By Dave Faries
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