36 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY June 6-12, 2024 www.montereycountynow.com One might not expect to find a solid American brunch option in King City. Not straight off the highway, anyway (exit 282 toward Broadway, driving south)—and certainly not with five different eggs benedict options and bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with goat cheese on the appetizer menu. Tourists passing through on their way to or from Paso Robles, or even Los Angeles, who Google a breakfast or lunch option in King City are astonished, admits Monterey-based owner Ronald Bonilla, until recently a student and a soccer player at Monterey Peninsula College. He heard about an empty restaurant space from his cousin who opened a business in King City and told Bonilla that the town was in need of a brunch spot. The place, formerly Jessie’s Cafe serving Mexican cuisine, was closed for two years before Bonilla opened King City Grill in October 2022. “Locals tell me every day, ‘Thank you so much for saving us time,’” he points out. “Now, they don’t have to travel to Monterey to have a family brunch, and wait in line without even knowing if it will be worth it.” The place draws traffic from the highway, and people from Los Angeles and San Francisco ask if Bonilla would ever consider opening King City Grill in their towns. It’s a real find also for bikers, who quickly learned about the place and now stop by frequently. “Upscale brunch and great customer service,” Bonilla says, summarizing his vision. Part of that commitment means that the owner is on hand “99.9 percent of the time” and puts in the effort to make everyone feel welcomed. King City Grill already has Sunday lines, but Bonilla’s long-term plan is even more ambitious: in about eight months, the breakfast and brunch joint will be also serving dinner. Beer, wine and mimosas are already on the menu, but soon Bonilla will pursue a full liquor license. “People come blue and leave happy,” he says with pride, adding that success is all about details. One show-stopper is the turkey burger with cranberry sauce and arugula, a lighter burger option created for Bonilla’s Aunt Betty—that’s also the name of the burger—that satisfies no-place-like-home Thanksgiving nostalgia. On the sweet side there is the Friou’s Signature, a deep-fried panettone bread with an unexpected wallop thanks to a signature syrup of Grand Marnier and brandy. Bonilla’s family, originally from San Salvador, has been in the restaurant business for a long time. His cousin runs Angelina’s Bakery in Seaside. The young owner curated the diner menu himself, picking bold names for his dishes, such as Copenhagen eggs benedict or Steinbeck omelet. He uses local produce and goes to Costco everyday for items he needs in quantity. “Everything has to be right, down to the parsley garnish on the hash browns,” Bonilla observes. “I don’t want people to notice that, let’s say, a different cook prepared a dish on a given day. Consistency is important. People pay attention to details.” Before he opened, Bonilla did a lot of remodeling, saving only the old-fashioned upholstered booths and swivel bar chairs (12 booths, some oversized, and 12 stools). Yet his intention was not to dress up the place too much. King City Grill remains unassuming, down to a big padlock hanging on the door (don’t be discouraged, it’s open). Its appearance matches the highway-side surroundings—motels, a McDonald’s and a gas station. But inside you find upbeat music (reggae and oldies), as well as meticulously prepared omelets, hot cakes and paninis. Bonilla couldn’t resist a nod to the familiarity of Mexican restaurants in South County. His “fancy micheladas” are overloaded with shrimp, cucumber, pineapple and other ingredients. It’s not that any diner would stand out along the King City roadscape. Diners were conceived by the American highway. A destination diner, however—that’s a new one. King City Grill is at 5 Broadway Circle, King City. Open 8am-2pm (except Tuesdays). 386-1112. First course There is a reason why the Betty (a turkey patty with cranberry sauce, cheese and arugula) opens the list of burgers at King City Grill. Not trying it would be a great mistake. Yes Sur…The Bodega at Big Sur Village is open at last. The coffee shop is open daily from 8am-3pm to help get you caffeinated. Stop in for a cup before or after one of their yoga classes upstairs, or on your way to or from a coastal adventure. They will continue to add to the food and beverage offerings. 46840 Highway 1, Big Sur. 667-1700, thevillagebigsur.com. Point scored…A potential bit of good news for fans of Big Sur’s Rocky Point Restaurant. The California Coastal Commission is set to vote on June 14 on a deal with property owner Patrice Pastor (see more in a news story, p. 11). In more food-related news, a Trader Joe’s grocery store is coming to the Promenade development in Marina, city records confirm (see more, p. 8). On Broadway…There are a couple of new faces on Broadway in Seaside. Bada Korean Kitchen takes over the problematic corner space at Broadway and Fremont that previously hosted a ramen spot and a crab boil in short order. But with a menu of bibimbap, kalbijjin, fried chicken options and more, Bada looks like a boon. Around the corner, Congo Go opened serving boba tea and small bites (satay, crab puffs). Bada Korean Kitchen, 880 Broadway Ave., Seaside, 920-1040. Congo Go, 800 Broadway Ave., Seaside, 202-1829. Getting Stoked…Stokes Adobe is now open every day. They serve dinner daily from 5-9pm, and offer a special happy hour menu daily from 4-5:30pm. But there’s more (and needless to say, it gets better): They also serve lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from noon-4pm. 500 Hartnell St., Monterey. 264-8775, stokesadobe.com. Marmee Dearest…Charcuterie boards and wine go hand in hand, right? Lady & Larder has got you covered on both fronts. They have opened Marmee’s Bar, a wine patio where you can sip a glass and nibble on small bites. Open Saturdays and Sundays from noon-7pm. 9 Del Fino Place, Carmel Valley. ladyandlarder.com Through Hoops…Hula’s bar Next Door welcomes summer by extending its hours. The bar is now open Thursday through Saturday, and Sundays on holiday weekends, starting at 5:30pm. They’re switching things up with a reverse happy hour, which starts at 7pm. 622 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. 6554852, hulastiki.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels eatanddrink@montereycountynow.com “Locals tell me every day, ‘Thank you so much.’” Eat + DrinK Agata Popeda Royal Brunch A destination diner with culinary flair and top-notch customer service develops a following in King City. By Agata Pop˛eda
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