38 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY MAY 2-8, 2024 www.montereycountyweekly.com Josie Lewis giggles at the thought of someone ordering a grilled cheese sandwich on her first visit to the kitchen tucked at the back of Other Brother Beer Co. in Seaside. After all, the brewpub has become known for its burgers, fried chicken sandwich and other plates. But the chef is a fan. “It’s always been one of my favorites,” she says of the homey classic. “Now I see some lunch regulars ordering it, which I’m stoked about. You can’t eat a cheeseburger every day.” In the pantheon of American comfort foods, grilled cheese and tomato soup ranks at or near the top. The combination is alluringly simple, yet it has sustained generations. And while other childhood favorites—the fried bologna sandwich, for instance—have fallen from restaurant favor, it’s easy to find grilled cheese alongside tomato soup on menus throughout the county. Erica and Brandon Domingos even turned it into a business, opening Toasted Artisan Grilled Cheese, first as a food truck and then as a fixture in Carmel Valley’s Mid-Valley Center. “Grilled cheese is comfort food,” Erica Domingos explains. “And it’s a brilliant blank canvas.” Artisan lists such favorites as the Cowbell, decked with brisket, barbecue sauce and pickled red onions. The restaurant showcases the versatility of the sandwich through frequent changes to the menu. They weighted down their April special with roasted turkey, asparagus pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and a balsamic glaze. “We like to play,” she says. Yet it’s not necessary to do much more than good bread and cheese to understand the enduring appeal. Although Other Brother offers a version with grilled onions and a secret sauce, the basic sandwich with Lewis’ tomato bisque fills the senses. The bread is rustic and blistered by the grill, so a bittersweet, wonderfully ashy sensation brazenly strides over the gentle, sour malt of the bread. There is no pretense—other than a drizzle of olive oil on the bisque—but the sandwich swells with a mellow yet decadent creaminess that is pleasant against the smoky char of the bread. It also resounds with a piquant tang that favors the opulent of the soup. “It’s just sharp cheddar and mozzarella,” Lewis points out. “We put a lot of cheese in there—that’s the secret.” The Other Brother chef also uses good bread, a sourdough loaf from Ad Astra. The Grill at Point Pinos in Pacific Grove also starts with the Monterey bakery’s sourdough. “The bread makes the sandwich,” says Daniel Ramirez, bar manager at the golf course restaurant. Point Pinos’ kitchen team otherwise remains true to childhood comfort, using American cheese (they are happy to swap). “It’s Pacific Grove,” Ramirez explains. “With it being foggy—comfort food. It’s a popular dish; everyone grew up with it.” The combination began as an inexpensive staple of white bread, processed cheese and canned soup. In fact, while Campbell’s introduced canned tomato soup in the 1890s, historians tie the rise in popularity of the familiar sandwich to the inventions of processed cheese and the bread slicer in the 1920s. By 1924, Kraft was already featuring “toasted” cheese sandwiches in its magazine and newspaper advertisements. Yet the prevalence of grilled cheese and tomato soup is due to necessity. The Great Depression and World War II—when American cheese sandwiches were an easy mess hall meal—made the sandwich a habit. It is thought that school lunch programs introduced Baby Boomers to the soup and sandwich combination and made it last. Kraft Singles, which arrived in grocery cases in 1965, probably helped. Domingos observes that 75-80 percent of guests at Toasted order soup alongside, and that few hesitate to dip. They prepare sandwiches with cheeses from the likes of Central Coast Creamery and Schoch Family Farm. Dressed up or down, grilled cheese and tomato soup continues to serve its purpose. “It’s warm and hearty and comforting—just a feel-good food,” Lewis says. “It reminds me of being a kid.” FIRST COURSE The grilled cheese sandwich and tomato bisque at Other Brother Beer Co. in Seaside. Paired side by side, it’s hard not to dip. TAP TAP TAPPING…The Brass Tap Marina is finally tapping and open for business. Its Instagram account has been claiming it is the “Monterey Bay’s #1 social gathering spot” for months, but at least now we can try to make this come true as the Promenade concept in The Dunes gets off the ground. With over 60 beers on tap and a full bar, they have beverages aplenty, which does make for a good gathering spot. They have only had their soft opening, but stay tuned for their grand opening with live music, food pairings and more. 99 General Stilwell Drive, Marina. 226-2333, brasstapbeerbar.com/marina. VINO A LA PLAYA…Talbott Vineyards is the focus of a Winemakers Dinner at La Playa Hotel on Friday, May 3 from 6-8:30pm. Guests will enjoy a sixcourse tasting menu, each course to be paired with one of Talbott’s fine wines, all with spectacular views of Carmel. Tickets are $150. La Playa at Camino Real and 8th Avenue, Carmel. (800) 582-8900, laplayahotel.com. OYSTERS AND ALBARIÑO… Nothing says spring like the dynamic duo of shellfish and wine, and you can get your share of both at I. Brand & Family’s event on Sunday, May 5. They will be pouring their spring release wines at Alvarado Street Brewery’s taproom and serving Oystertown oysters and small bites from 1-4pm. Tickets are $30. 1367 Dayton St., Suite D, Salinas. 2987227, ibrandwinery.com. PIE-EYED…Alvarado Street Brewery is celebrating the fact that its Monterey location has been thriving for 10 years by rolling out a selection of pizzas with thin, crispy, cheesy crusts. They have something for everyone with meaty pies, vegetarian pies, and even one with highly controversial pineapple. These are only available at the Monterey location, the original spot. 426 Alvarado St., Monterey. 655-2337, asb.beer. SUN, WIND, WINE…The 16th annual Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind, and Wine Festival is coming up on Saturday, May 18. Spend the day sampling over 100 wines from local wineries, and enjoying incredible food offerings from many of the area’s finest establishments. There is a range of ticket options. The event takes place at Mer Soleil Winery. 1290 River Road, Salinas. (707) 967-3010, mersoleilwines.com, santaluciahighlands.com. By Jacqueline Weixel MORSELS Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “It’s a comfort food. And it’s a brilliant blank canvas.” EAT + DRINK DANIEL DREIFUSS Combo Meal The grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup, once childhood staples, are hits on restaurant menus. By Dave Faries
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