www.montereycountyweekly.com may 2-8, 2024 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY 23 John Madden’s wife, Virginia Fields (“Her bread pudding is unbelievable,” Mercurio says). The restaurant still keeps Madden’s table reserved. “When I handed [the cookbook] to mom, there were tears in her eyes,” he observes. “I didn’t do this to turn a profit. I wanted something my kids would remember about their grandparents—and me.” People write cookbooks for different reasons. In the 1800s, chefs like Auguste Escoffier compiled recipes to share with other professional chefs in order to improve and advance the industry. Celebrity chefs—whether known for their television exploits such as Rachael Ray or acclaimed for their cooking like Thomas Keller—can expect to make some money on their titles. But cookbook author Kristen Donnelly points out that only 20 to 30 percent of books make a profit above the advance from a publishing house. And piecing one together is a costly endeavor. There are ingredients to pay for, photographs to take, experts in layout and design to consult and more. And all of that comes only if a publisher is willing to gamble on adding another cookbook to a crowded market. “I couldn’t find anyone to publish it,” Mercurio says. “I didn’t try, honestly.” Both opted to self publish. And both have already sold over 600 copies— enough for the Culcasis to recoup their expenses. Mercurio opted for a more expensive product, one with color photos throughout. Their object, however, is not profit but a connection with customers. And the books serve as a form of publicity, reminding people of the restaurants each time they scan their bookshelves. This is the second cookbook from the Culcasis. The original Rosine’s collection came out in the late 1980s and it was due for a complete revision. Besides, customers had been asking about the cookbook. “We’ve been out of stock since—I don’t have a date to give you,” Susan Culcasi says, estimating that the previous edition sold out more than a decade ago. So the lineup of recipes includes a take on French onion soup favored by one of their early patrons. “Every recipe has a personal meaning behind it,” she adds. It’s that connection to family, friends and restaurant guests that give these cookbooks meaning for their authors. Karen Anne Murray, who owned Eddison & Melrose, wrote Tea Table: Inspiring Teatime Creations from California’s Central Coast, which came out not long before she retired from the tea room. “People would come by and get signed copies,” she recalls. Murray continues to host recipe talks and book parties around the country. “I’m having fun with the book. It was definitely worth it.” ■ ■ ■ Creating these cookbooks was essentially a labor of love—and it requires quite a bit of work. There are photo shoots to arrange, copy must be proofread, decisions on layout and cover art need to be made (The Wecker Group in Monterey helped the Culcasis with this process). And the authors must commit to a lot of time in the kitchen. “Every recipe was tested,” Susan Culcasi says. Her observation is echoed by Jim: “Tested and tested and tested.” The Rosine’s owners had been through the process once before. Even so, it took them a year to sort recipes and agree on design. Putting the book together took Mercurio a year-and-ahalf. And though this is his first cookbook, having helped test 86 recipes for John Madden’s Ultimate Tailgating guide, which hit shelves in 1998, Mercurio understood the commitment. “I knew what I was getting into, recipe-wise,” he says. It’s not a straightforward step translating a recipe perfected for the restaurant kitchen for a home cook. The team at Cafe Fina, for instance, prepares marinara in 10-gallon batches. Herbs and spices release their flavors differently at that scale compared to simmering a few cups of sauce. Restaurants approach entrees differently, as well. The recipes are broken down into stations and adjusted for timing to the table. Left: Some of the ingredients that go into the angel hair pasta dish at Rosine’s, as well as the finished product. Right: Dominic Mercurio flips through the Cafe Fina cookbook, which has already sold over 600 copies. “Every recipe has a personal meaning behind it.” Daniel Dreifuss
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