Eat+Drink

Varietal Pack to sip, with the zing of tart apple calming as juicier notions like tangerine take shape. Underneath this refreshing sensation, the warmer, more mellow savor of honey and almond recline. In the background, but rising on the finish, is a huskier tone of toasted spice. A 2020 Vermentino from Chesebro would be one’s best friend on a warm, sunny afternoon. It’s pleasantly fruity and floral on the nose, cool and brisk on the palate, with green apple and a squirt of lime and soft earth. It’s a deftly balanced wine. The 2018 Falanghina from Wrath Wines spills aromas that promise a rich, lush wine, with dried apricot, toasted almond, meadow flowers and a hint of buckwheat honey. But it changes directions when sipped, springing onto the palate with darts of apple, apricot and citrus. Yet there is a tannic grip—a parched, gritty, leather strap finish that evens the fruit. Such wines result from a new ethic, one of finding vines suited to the terroir, rather than planting for a larger market. “One of the underpinnings of the work we do is exploration of the area,” says Brand, who believes Monterey County— the Salinas Valley in particular—is ideal for many white grape varieties. “We found some surprising things.” The process has led growers back to practices from long ago. Planting different grape varieties according to microclimates, with budding and harvest staggered—even in the same block of a vineyard—not only brings lesserknown grapes into play, but also means less damage to overall crops from fickle weather events. The team at Scheid Vineyards took to head-training some vines, one of the earliest field traditions. Treated this way, the vines appear like small trees. Their Arbolitos is a blend of Primitivo, Barbera, Charbono and Carignan, along with the more familiar Petite Sirah and Cabernet. At the same time, new generations of wine drinkers are more willing to explore. “I so appreciate that [winemakers] are so willing to experiment,” Stemler says. As winemakers delve deeper into the minutiae of soil and climate, some are 30 The Best of Monterey Bay® EAT + DRINK 2023-2024 831.626.6268 | mcintyrevineyards.com Join Us At Our Tasting Studio in the Carmel Crossroads Enjoy our wines at our Tasting Studio or call and make a reservation for an Estate Vineyard tasting. Producing handmade, highly acclaimed Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Sparkling and Roséée from sustainably farmed vineyards in the Legendary Santa Lucia Highlands. WINES GET YOUR TICKETS STARTING APRIL 15! SalinasValleyFoodAndWine.com The Salinas Valley Food and Wine Festival is a production of Ye Old Main Street Foundation benefiting Dorothy’s Kitchen. SATURDAY • AUGUST 5 11:30-3:00 • OLDTOWN SALINAS Dozens of Wineries! Beer & Food Vendors & Live Music! GET YOUR TICKETS STARTING APRIL 15! SalinasValleyFoodAndWine.com The Salinas Valley Food and Wine Festival is a production of Ye Old Main Street Foundation benefiting Dorothy’s Kitchen. SATURDAY • AUGUST 5 11:30-3:00 • OLDTOWN SALINAS Dozens of Wineries! Beer & Food Vendors & Live Music!

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