44 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY december 14-20, 2023 www.montereycountyweekly.com There is a side dish on the revamped menu at Montrio that clearly runs counter to the chef’s principles. At the same time, however, it is an example of the finesse he brings to the kitchen. “I like to use the best products,” explains Kurt Boucher, who took the reins at the venerable downtown Monterey restaurant five months ago and just revealed his original dishes. “You start with something good, you’re more likely to end up with something good.” The pork is from a heritage breed. Lamb comes from the pastures of Colorado. Snake River Farms provides slabs of Wagyu beef, while the venison was raised naturally in New Zealand. Boucher refers to this as an “ingredient-driven” menu, drawing from the finest products to be found both in Monterey County and around the world. Which is why the Sriracha risotto catches your eye. There is nothing wrong with the ubiquitous sauce. Among a list including fennel confit, huckleberry demi-glace and the like, however, Sriracha seems rather commonplace—and the chef admits that it tends to be abused. But a caveat comes when you pick up a fork. Somehow Boucher has untangled the fractious elements that make up Sriracha, leaving instead a sensation of roasted red peppers and cured pimento. A plush duvet of cream obscures a sneaky flicker of heat so that its source becomes difficult to trace. Black peppercorns? Chile japones? Anything but Sriracha. Yet there is no actual alchemy involved, just ingredients and a whisk. With Boucher’s nimble touch, bold spices can become phantoms, appearing as ethereal wisps. The brittle crust on a robust, double-cut pork chop seems to vanish, leaving just a frail smoky cackle. A tingle of rosemary appears seemingly out of nowhere, its essence awakening the nutty, meadow grass savor of the meat. This particular preparation was named best pork dish in Denver about 12 years ago, and it represents the chef’s approach when creating the menu. “I want people to taste the food I love to cook—where I’ve been and what I’ve done,” he says. Boucher completed his culinary education at the prestigious Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island. He was a chef at restaurants in Aspen and Denver for 26 years before heading further west. Along the way he earned a spot on Iron Chef America, where he challenged Bobby Flay. “I didn’t beat Bobby Flay,” Boucher says with a smile. “It was the fastest hour of my life.” The chef credits his time at Aspen’s The Pine Creek Cookhouse, with its emphasis on wild game and tendency to be cut off from all but sleigh traffic during heavy snow, for honing his skills. Winter isolation often meant the pantry and cooler could not be easily restocked. “That’s where a lot of my cooking comes from,” Boucher explains. “‘We’re out of this, so let’s try…’ You have to think quickly sometimes.” The wild mushroom torte resulted from such improvisation. It’s another dish from the past, one that came about when Boucher contemplated a delivery of mushrooms and the makings of puff pastry. It’s presented in a red pepper coulis that provides a gentle, piquant sweetness that gives the calm, earthy funk of mushrooms a resounding depth. It’s as if the coulis and medley of fungi were meant to be together, even if the pairing is not readily intuitive. And it’s that way with many of his plates. Deft seasoning and thoughtful arrangement bring an uncommon eloquence. If there are tendencies, it’s in his appreciation for the homespun appeal that a waft of smoke or the opulent sheen that duck fat can lend a dish. Montrio’s new chef took his time before putting his own stamp on the restaurant’s menu, which he intends to update a couple of times a year, with specials and a few seasonal items. He spent the first few months learning. “I got a feel for my kitchen and a feel for the team,” Boucher says. “You’re only as good as your team.” It was, he adds, time well spent: “We’re hitting our stride right now.” Montrio is at 414 Calle Principal, Monterey. 648-8880, montrio.com. First course “I’ve been cooking a long time,” says Chef Kurt Boucher, who includes a number of his favorite dishes on the new menu at Montrio. Holiday Cheer…The Monterey Regional Airport is spreading holiday cheer to active service members from Dec. 18 through Dec. 25. The airport has set up a special holiday military lounge in the administration office where active service members and those they are traveling with can enjoy complementary meals from Woody’s At The Airport, snacks, beverages and other amenities. Non-military folks can get in on the good vibes too, by donating meals for $10 apiece at Woody’s. 200 Fred Kane Drive, Monterey. 648-7000, montereyairport.com. Cookie Class…Try your hand at the art of cookie decorating with the help of the experts at Sweet Elena’s. The Sand City favorite is hosting a Christmas cookie decorating class on Saturday, Dec. 16 from 11am to 2pm. Participants will decorate two ginger cookies and three shortbread cookies, all in different festive shapes, while sipping homemade hot cocoa. Tickets are $25 per kit and each kit includes all you need for this sweet project. 465 Olympia Ave. # D, Sand City. 393-2063, sweetelenas.com. Food For Fines…Through the month of December, those with overdue or late fines on their account at the Monterey Public Library or Pacific Grove Public Library can pay off those fines with donations of non-perishable food items. Items will be donated to the Food Bank For Monterey County to help feed locals in need—it’s a win-win. Monterey Public Library is at 625 Pacific St., Monterey, 646-3933, monterey. org/library. P.G. Public Library is at 550 Central Ave., Pacific Grove, 648-5760, pacificgrovelibrary.org. Party Prep…The Meatery is taking pre-orders for ready-made (and very gourmet) holiday meals—and they are going fast. Order from an extensive selection of full meals, roasts, sides and starters to be picked up Dec. 21, 22 or 23 for your holiday feast. Orders must be made and paid for in advance. 1534 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 656-8810, themeateryseaside.com. Cookies And Carols…Head to the Grill at Point Pinos on Friday, Dec. 15 from 4-7pm to enjoy live music from the Pacific Grove Middle School Band and carols from the Peninsula Harmony Company while sipping seasonal beverages—like an eggnog latte. 79 Asilomar Blvd., Pacific Grove. 375-1313, grillatpointpinos.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “You’re only as good as your team.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Good Stuff Montrio’s new chef, Kurt Boucher, defines an “ingredient-driven” menu. By Dave Faries
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