42 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY may 4-10, 2023 www.montereycountyweekly.com “We’re not a standard doughnut shop.” That’s how Chris Whitman sums up Dutch Door Donuts in Carmel. And indeed, the handsome space which he co-owns is the pursuit of doughnut perfection—a crisp patina over billowing dough that is teasingly sweet and nutty. The same phrase could be applied to Monterey’s Rock N Roll Donut Bar, where owner Scott Kirkpatrick once piled chocolate, whipped cream, two different cookie dough flavors, sprinkles and other goodies on what he dubbed the Ooey Gooey Bar. “That was probably a bit much,” he says with a chuckle. “But people liked it. It was fun.” Both places push the treat to opposite extremes, making the most recent additions to the Monterey County doughnut scene stand apart from other shops. In each case, distinction is by design. Dutch Door, which opened in the fall of 2021, takes a fine dining approach with a little flair. They tend toward seasonal flavors using local ingredients when possible. The yeast dough is proofed a day in advance and the menu is thoughtful: almond with cinnamon and sesame, blood orange tempered with guava, or unbeatable pairings like cinnamon and sugar. “Our thought was, ‘Why couldn’t it be culinary?’” Whitman explains. “We think it should be hot, fresh and made to order, just like at a restaurant.” Where Dutch Door is sophisticated fun, Rock N Roll is rambunctious, almost incorrigible and probably bonkers—triple chocolate cookie dough, snickerdoodle crumble, coco banana cream pie and a suspiciously blue creation labeled Mermaid. In such a setting, bacon seems rather mundane. Where Dutch Door offers a select menu, Kirkpatrick averages 22 different doughnut options every day. “We work really hard to make sure there are a lot of options—somewhat obnoxious, sometimes,” he says. “My concept is something that is big, bold and beautiful,” acknowledging that any more than seven or eight additions is going too far. Yet both have been drawing crowds and raves. In fact, Kirkpatrick, who opened Rock N Roll a year ago, already has plans on a second location, this time in Santa Cruz. For Whitman, the difference—and the popularity—is a matter of form and function. Most doughnut shops serve a purpose, providing familiar treats and coffee and a little morning comfort. The new shops on the block put on a show, albeit differently. Watching your order go from a ring of pale dough to a golden brown delight at Dutch Door brings tingles of anticipation. Meanwhile, at Rock N Roll, the dazzling color is like a carnival. “We wanted to change the perception of the doughnut,” Whitman says. For more than a century, doughnuts were conventional items, a treat Smithsonian Magazine defined as “base and beloved.” Red Cross volunteers served doughnuts to American troops in France during World War I, which helped create generations of doughnut-loving Americans. The numbers are staggering. According to Statista, an estimated 204.5 million Americans ate doughnuts at some point in 2022, with that figure on the rise. Despite data supporting the American love of the treats, Canadians actually consume more doughnuts per capita than any other people. As it turns out, Whitman is Canadian. “They’ve been in my life forever,” he reports. The success of both places suggests that people are ready for whatever doughnuts throw at them, from wildly unconventional—just what is a Mermaid doughnut?—to the pillowy subtleties of a doughnut that caresses the senses. “Our customers love the product,” Whitman of Dutch Door says. “That’s what we wanted, a culinary experience.” That’s another word that easily defines both spaces. Dutch Door Donuts, Ocean Avenue and Mission Street (Carmel Plaza), Carmel. 250-7901, dutchdoordonuts.com. Rock N Roll Donut Bar, 685 Cannery Row, Monterey. 264-6555, rocknrolldonutbar.com. First course At Dutch Door Donuts in Carmel, each delicate, pillowy ring of fried dough is made fresh to order. New In Town…There’s a new coffee place in town. C.U. Sushi, which kept Jo’s Cafe in the Monterey County government building afloat during Covid, is now Villa Rivera Café, offering coffee, smoothies and breakfast and lunch food items like avocado toast and oatmeal, as well as ramen. The spot was celebrated with a ribbon cutting on April 20. Welcome to the neighborhood! (C.U. Sushi, meanwhile, can now be found in the Carmel Crossroads at 173 Crossroads Blvd.) 142 West Alisal St., Suite. E-112, Salinas. 229-7245, villariveracafe.com. Brunch Debut…Foray Restaurant is introducing a new brunch offering, starting on Mother’s Day, which is Sunday, May 14. The inaugural brunch menu features a Bee LaForte Superchicken egg omelette, candy cap brioche French toast, mille-crepe dessert and much more. Reservations are live now. 5th Ave, Carmel. 250-6100, forayrestaurant.com. Dine Out For Books…Head to Stokes Adobe on Monday, May 8 to drink and dine while supporting the Monterey Public Library. Happy hour will begin at 4pm and dinner service is from 5-9pm. Treat yourself to a full meal from their ever-changing menu or a bite and drink by the fire pits. A portion from the day’s sales will be donated to the library. 500 Hartnell St., Monterey. 264-8775, stokesadobe.com. nurture Nature…Folktale Winery is hosting a dinner to benefit the Point Lobos Foundation on Wednesday, May 10 from 6-9pm. Executive Chef Justin Robarge has prepared special buffet-style dishes to be enjoyed while sipping on Folktale’s own wines and supporting a local environmental organization. Tickets ($75) can be purchased online. 8940 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel. 293-7500, folktalewinery.com. S’mores By The Shore… The days are long and that means it’s s’mores season. Saltwood Kitchen & Oysterette is now offering s’mores kits to enjoy by the bonfires in their courtyard. Enjoy as an after-dinner treat, or as a stand-alone summer evening special with a glass of wine. Each kit is prepared in a tin with all the graham crackers, marshmallows and chocolate needed. What better way to end a summer’s evening than under the stars with s’mores? 3295 Dunes Drive, Marina. 883-5535, saltwoodkitchenandoysterette.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “We think it should be hot, fresh and made to order.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Holey Rollers Two doughnut shops take the common treat to very different extremes. By Dave Faries
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