40 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY April 20-26, 2023 www.montereycountyweekly.com It’s not always easy to come up with a new dish, or even a twist on tradition. So Stephen Pacania was proud when his carrot tartare turned out well. Justin Robarge, the chef at Folktale Winery in Carmel Valley, appreciated the flavor as much as the playful name. Tartare would imply raw carrots, but the preparation was more involved. So he put it on the menu. Both laugh about it now. “That thing did not sell at all,” Pacania says. It did provide him with a valuable lesson: Carrot tartare was an example of the limits a dining public can clamp on creativity. Pacania serves as Robarge’s sous chef at Folktale, a position he has held for a couple of years. He admits the transition from line cook has been a bit challenging—he still wants to jump in and do the job himself, even when things are running smoothly in the kitchen. In fact, Pacania prefers to say “I cook” rather than share his job title with people he meets. It’s not that he’s reluctant to let people know. He just finds it simpler than explaining the duties of a sous chef. “I definitely do a lot more people-managing than cooking,” he says. Food programs on television may give the impression that chefs tend to the flattop personally—and in small kitchens that is often the case. But in the structured world of a kitchen with several stations, a sous chef is essentially second in command. Instead of finessing dishes, the sous chef spends much of the day ensuring that cooks have what they need and are on task, that the pantry and walk-in are stocked, that they are maintaining a consistent quality—essentially executing the chef’s plan. That’s why when Christian Ojeda, executive chef at Lucia Restaurant in Bernardus Lodge, looks for a sous chef, he measures demeanor and people skills as much as culinary ability. “It’s about leadership, getting buy-in from the staff,” Ojeda observes. With the right sous chef—Jae Moon holds the position at Lucia—the team comes together. “It’s a team sport,” Robarge agrees. The executive chef or chef de cuisine is comparable to a head coach. He describes the sous chef as a quarterback—still in the game, but also part of the planning process. The structure dates back to the late 1800s. Chef Georges-August Escoffier brought his experience in the French Army to the kitchen, creating a hierarchy of command and responsibility that exists largely intact to this day— although not every restaurant has need for a garde manger (the person handling cold food) or a dedicated saucier (for sauces). It’s a system that allows the chef to write menus, train staff, set standards, explore new dishes and keep an eye on the profit margin. According to Ojeda, the demands on a sous chef haven’t changed much over time. There is perhaps more of an emphasis on managing time on the line, ensuring the cooks keep up as orders come in. And modern chefs sit down with their second-in-command to plan future menus and test recipes. Pacania admits that stepping away from the line and into a job with management duties was frustrating at first. There’s satisfaction in keeping your station in the flow on a busy night, a feeling he still misses. After graduating from high school with some experience busing tables, Pacania took frontof-house positions—first at Chopstix, then Benihana and Lollapalooza. He then moved to New York. “I wanted to learn to cook,” he says. “I challenged myself.” That level of motivation is also a sous chef trait prized by executive chefs. As Robarge explains, when the chef steps out, the sous chef is in charge. “It may sound weird, but I look for someone who can take over my job,” he says of a sous chef’s qualifications. “The greatest thing is to see them become chefs. We have line cooks who are hungry for the sous chef position. The sous chef wants to be chef.” For Pacania, who has found success in short order, stepping further away from the line to become a chef is now the goal. “Why not? I’ve come this far,” he says. “I don’t see a point in stopping. Ultimately it’s fun.” First course Chef Justin Robarge, left, with Folktale Winery sous chef Stephen Pacania. “We try to lead by example,” Pacania says. Birria for Brunch…Aquinos Birrieria has started serving brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am-2pm. They offer a selection of waffles, omelettes, house specialties like chilaquiles and tostada rancheras, and classics like biscuits and gravy or sausage and eggs. 1116A Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. 224-6760, aquinosbirrieria.com. Birthday Bottles…Vin Wine Bar + Bottle Boutique wants to celebrate its first anniversary with you. On Saturday, April 22, the Crossroads spot will host a birthday celebration with complimentary small bites and bubbles from noon-8pm and live music from 2-5pm. Toast to the shop’s first year in business, and then grab some bottles to bring home for your own celebrations. 237 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 293-8715, vinbarcarmel.com. Fish Dinner…Maligne is hosting a benefit dinner in support of Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust on Saturday, May 6. The restaurant will serve a four-course, locally sourced, seafood-centric meal, proceeds of which will be donated to the nonprofit, which aims to support thriving community fisheries and sustainable local seafood. The meal is $85 per person. 600 Broadway Ave., Seaside. 6011302, restaurantmaligne.com. Local tap…On Wednesdays, locals can get a two-for-one deal on pizza at California Seltzer Co. Go take in the beautiful, waterfront view at Lovers Point while sipping on unique, specialty seltzers and a bonus cheese or pepperoni pizza. Open Wednesday and Thursday 3-8pm, Friday and Saturday 11am-9pm, and Sunday 11am-8pm. 631 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove. 717-3827, californiaseltzerco.com. Spring Special…Crab cake and avocado for spring? Groundbreaking. The Butter House is now offering a springtime breakfast special: a crab cake and avocado benedict. Be sure to stop by and try this seasonal offering while it lasts. 1760 Fremont Blvd., Unit B-1, Seaside. 394-2887, thebutterhouse. com. Sweet-cuterie…Make your own sweet “charcuterie” board at this event at The Quail and Olive on Saturday, April 22. Participants will work in pairs to create a board of sweet treats like candies and cookies to take home, while enjoying small bites and non-alcoholic beverages. Tickets are $125 per pair and can be purchased at bit.ly/SweetBoardClass. 14 Del Fino Place, Carmel Valley. 6594288, quailandolive.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “Line cooks are hungry for the sous chef position.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss It Takes Two The sous chef is coming for the chef’s job, and that’s the way chefs want it. By Dave Faries
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