34 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY february 16-22, 2023 www.montereycountyweekly.com Lobster thermidor will settle you onto a mound of plump, velvety pillows. Chateaubriand is a commitment, with jackets and white tablecloths almost a prerequisite. The experience of either legendary dish at present, however, is a thing of the past. Fifty years ago, those preparations—along with favorites such as trout amandine, chicken Florentine or bouillabaisse—were featured on just about every fine dining menu on the Monterey Peninsula. Long ago, places like Georges, Club XIX, even the Polynesian-themed Outrigger offered the delicate but considerable steak. “The Clam Box—that was famous for its lobster thermidor,” recalls Chef Todd Fisher of The Meatery in Seaside. But it was also served at a number of other restaurants, such as The Rogue and Rappa’s. No more. Dining is always subject to the whims of an era. Ted Balestreri, who opened Sardine Factory with Bert Cutino in 1968, says that evolution is fundamental to the longevity of any restaurant, and that new flavors have created a more vibrant dining scene. “We used to serve soup, salad, entree—three-course meals,” he adds. “Things disappear because they’re not selling. They fall out of favor.” Memories of the way we dined can be found in annual editions of Adventures in Dining: The Gourmet’s Guide to the Monterey Bay Area from the 1970s. The publications provide a glimpse of the dining scene just before the culinary revelations of the ’80s and beyond. The fast-casual concept was still in the future, most people scrunched their faces at the thought of sushi and should some forward-thinker have praised fusion, quizzical blank faces would have been the likely reaction. There was little in the way of adventure. Mexican restaurants, a few Japanese (teriyaki was the rage), fewer vegetarian options appear among lists of American and continental destinations preparing classics like steak au poivre. “Think about the names of those items,” Fisher notes. “French—that was the cuisine supreme.” Steak au poivre can be found at Bistro Moulin in Monterey and La Bicyclette in Carmel, but few other kitchens now serve the peppered classic that a restaurant named York promised to flame tableside. Trout has been replaced by sand dab amandine, although both Beach House and Whaling Station in Monterey ditch the French in favor of “almondine.” More space was devoted to bouillabaisse than cioppino at the time. In fact, at least one restaurant listed “chioppino,” presumably to aid in pronunciation. Now Pacific Grove’s Wild Fish is one of the remaining places dishing the Old World version. “Chefs want to be innovative,” observes Bill Lee, the veteran restaurateur who plans to open Kona Steak & Seafood in Monterey’s Del Monte Center this spring. “Some dishes fall by the wayside.” Others may have become victims of their popularity. “Done right…” Fisher pauses, his eyes rolling back as he recalls duck l’orange and its sauce that some described as sunlight distilled to its purest form. Julia Child promoted the dish and it became a fixture of dinner parties. Restaurants followed. Eventually, the famed dish sank into mediocrity and celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay dismissed it as “the culinary equivalent of flared trousers.” “People have a hard time getting duck crispy,” Fisher explains. “They are not patient.” Fandango in downtown Pacific Grove may be the last gasp of duck l’orange in Monterey County. It also serves as a reminder. “We forget how delicious some of those dishes were,” says Brian Hein, food and beverage manager at Monterey’s Portola Plaza Hotel. “Probably some of them could make a comeback.” Why not? Chateaubriand is steakhouse decadence, a thick portion served with a rich sauce—most often béarnaise—generally reserved for two guests. Lobster thermidor is equally indulgent, with béchamel draped over the meat. Sauces were a theme, clearly. “I think lobster thermidor will come back,” Balestreri observes. While it requires a bit of labor in the kitchen, the result can be memorable. “We’ll make it for you, if you want.” First course At one point in the not so distant past, most fine dining restaurants in Monterey County served duck l’orange. Fandango in Pacific Grove continues the tradition. Say Ramen…Ko Ko Ro opened this week in Seaside. The ramen and sushi shop is still working out the kinks— including staffing issues that left it shuttered for the day on Feb. 14—but promises fresh seafood and cold beer. Ko Ko Ro replaces the short-lived Crab Bucket on the corner of Broadway and Fremont. 880 Broadway Ave. C-5, Seaside. 9201040. Small pleasures…On Wednesdays and Sundays, Monterey’s premier craft cocktail bar Pearl Hour hosts “little pleasures,” a take on happy hour featuring a selection of $7 cocktails and $7 small plates. Stop by between 6pm and 9pm either evening to sip (and snack) from this special menu. 214 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. pearlhour.com. Sweet Benefit…The Monterey Public Library is hosting its 18th annual Wine & Chocolate Benefit fundraiser at 4pm on Saturday, Feb. 25. The event is exactly what it sounds like—attendees get to eat chocolate and drink wine, all while supporting California’s first public library. The event is back in person this year for the first time since the start of the pandemic. Tickets are $75 and can be purchased atinvestinmpl.org/18th-annual-chocolate-wine-tickets. Space is limited. 625 Pacific St., Monterey. 6463933, monterey.org/services/library. Brunch Con Amor…Areperia 831 and Cali Dawg Vegan are teaming up to bring you a delicious, plant-based, Valentine’s-themed brunch on Saturday, Feb. 18. From noon-5pm they will be serving chick’n & waffles, enfrijoladas and pulled “pork” sammies at the Urban Arts Collective in Salinas. 21 Soledad St., Suite C, Salinas. instagram.com/ calidawgvegan, instagram.com/areperia831. Rules of Wine Club…Bear And Flag Roadside is hosting the next gathering of the Carmel Valley Wine Drinking Club on Wednesday, Feb. 22. Expect a tasting selection of wines from Chile and Argentina, along with a pairing menu by Chef Todd Fisher. Tickets are $35 at bit.ly/FebWineClub. 7152 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel. 293-8608, bearandflagroadside.com. Taco Tuesday…It’s a great tradition and Tacos El Jalisciense in Seaside has a deal. It’s just $1.50 for select street tacos. 1390 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 920-2172. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “I think lobster thermidor will come back.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Dinner Time A look at old menus proves culinary times change. By Dave Faries
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