www.montereycountyweekly.com FEBRUARY 2-8, 2023 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY 35 CHILL Winemakers have a love-hate relationship with Graciano. The vines tolerate drought, but are quick to succumb to mildew and notoriously stingy when it comes to producing fruit, the very thing needed to make wine. Graciano is also a braggart—so much so that the Spanish varietal most often ends up in blends to muffle its aromatic chatter. None of this is cause for alarm, at least for Michael Simons. The Comanche Cellars owner turns out a Graciano under his Dog & Pony label. The 2020 vintage, which reached the winery’s Monterey tasting room this week, is a vibrant expression of fruit. Brisk, ripe cherries, mulberries, blueberries—a fresh bushel basket—spills from the rim, luscious on the nose. When sipped, that burst of fruit trails more foreboding earthen notes: fallen leaves, peeling cedar bark, leather and dusty spices, like a worn trail through a dark forest. Yet in this are hopeful notes of vanilla and soft petals. And all the while, the bright red fruits glisten, hanging on the finish, tempered by a pang of citrus zest. Graciano can be intense. But Simons manages to contain its extravagant nature by serving the red varietal chilled, creating a vivid yet refreshing wine. If there’s a downside, Comanche Cellars produced just 25 cases. The vines are, after all, stubbornly frugal— but obviously worth the investment. Comanche Cellars, 412 Alvarado St., Monterey. 747-2244, comanchecellars.com. Rare Breed Comanche Cellars shows that Graciano can—and should—stand on its own. By Dave Faries SEND IDEAS TO: chill@mcweekly.com DAVE FARIES 484 Washington St., Downtown Monterey 11:30am Mon—Fri 10am Sat & Sun melvilletav.com (831) 643-9525 scan QR code for menu GREAT GRUB & GOLF AT&T PRO-AM WEEKEND WEEKEND BRUNCH WITH BOTTOMLESS MIMOSAS INDOOR + PATIO DINE IN and TAKEOUT HAPPY HOUR SUN-THUR 4-6PM • Indoor dining • Patio situated in Carmel Plaza with heating and umbrellas • 24 beer taps, local wine list & craft spirits • To-go cans & bottles Open Sunday-Thursday 11:30am-9pm Friday and Saturday 11:30am-10pm WELCOME AT&T PRO-AM FANS & PLAYERS Come Enjoy Our Award Winning Beers & California Coastal Cuisine 831-293-8621 • asb.beer • Carmel Plaza, Ocean Ave & Mission Street • Carmel-by-the-Sea ♦ 3 Card Poker ♠ Century 21st No Bust Black Jack ♣ Texas Hold’em ♥ Baccarat FULL BAR! BLACKJACK BONUS POINTS PAYS UP TO $20,000 SMALL TOWN BIG PAYOUTS! 1-800-Gambler • Gega-003846, Gega-Gega-003703, Gega-000889 Gega-000891 Gega-002838 The Marina Club Casino ensures the safety and security of all guests and team members at all times, while providing exceptional service. 204 Carmel Ave. Marina 831-384-0925 casinomonterey.com ♠ ♣ ♥ ♦ Just minutes from Downtown Monterey Where Monterey Comes To Play
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