32 MONTEREY COUNTY WEEKLY january 12-18, 2023 www.montereycountyweekly.com It’s not often a produce market leaves one breathless. Recently a Pacific Grove resident called to boast about a place she had stumbled upon. Even over a phone line one could almost see her eyes widen in awe. As she went on, the market seemed almost fantastical in scope: exotic fruits and vegetables, international goods and spices. Tales of lucky newcomers snatching a rare parking space while those in the know slipped through a passage to a hidden lot in the rear just added to the sense of discovery. Don’t prepare to be disappointed. While Forest Produce Market appears humble from the street, it can also be a revelation. Among chard and collards, there are bunches of impertinent dandelion greens—the stuff of honest, down-to-earth Southern pot liquor dishes. There are equally make-do fundamentals, like bitter melon and parsnips, alongside intriguing items, such as turmeric root and sinqua squash. “We have a lot of things you don’t necessarily see at big box stores,” says Sal Rona, who owns and operates the market along with his parents, Ned and Zohra. “I’m used to the explaining part.” Forest Produce Market opened a month ago without fanfare in a space all but forgotten by the daily shopper. It was previously home to an antique shop and, for many years before that, a kickboxing studio—which left a relatively blank canvas for Rona to fill. He went about it in a minimalist fashion, with shelves along a few walls and tables lined up in between. It’s not fancy, but it is colorful: a step pyramid of Cara Cara oranges, different types of eggplant ranging from rich purple to deep earth, a splash of greens and golds in varied shapes and sizes. Beyond the selection of produce, there are spices and packaged goods from around the world—more than 1,000 items on the shelves. No wonder the little market seems like a carnival surprise to many when they first walk through the door. Yet there are several international shops and produce markets in Monterey County, so the concept should not seem extraordinary. Indeed, while the emergence of supermarkets—particularly following World War II—made convenience popular and shuttered many neighborhood markets and produce stands, American buying habits have changed. People are willing to seek out freshness and variety. In the two decades between 1994 and 2014, the U.S. Department of Agriculture reported a 371-percent increase in the number of farmers markets listed in the country. Family groceries like Star Market in Salinas and Grove Market in Pacific Grove thrive. Independent butchers are finding a niche, if Seaside’s The Meatery is evidence. The return of dedicated produce markets to the mainstream is not that much of a stretch. Rona’s accomplishment is to bring the concepts of produce market and international market together in a manner that is familiar to the grocery store shopper. Near a wicker basket of aloe vera fronds are the same bags of prepared celery found anywhere. Next to rice of differing grains sit the recognizable grocery brands. “We put together a market for everyone,” Rona says. “That’s what we were going for.” Grocery shopping is more inclusive nowadays, Rona believes. People are more willing to pick up quality items from small operations in addition to the convenience of large stores. His goal with Forest Produce Market is not to compete with the brand names, but to offer another option, with a more personal touch. One recent afternoon, a returning guest thanks the family for setting up shop. Moments later, someone who found the market by chance exclaims a “wow,” followed by “how long have you been here?” The most frequent question is “where do I park?” But that’s part of a process that Rona hopes will lead to success. Once inside, he expects that many shoppers will return. And that those who discover the unexpected pick up their phones and spread the word. Forest Produce Market, 1169 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. Open daily 8am-8pm. 747-1119. First course Sal Rona, right, with his father Ned are surrounded by colorful fruits and vegetables in Pacific Grove’s Forest Produce Market. Hospitality HonorS…The John “Spud” Spadaro Hospitality Awards celebrate local food industry leaders. This year’s recipients have been announced and will be honored at an awards dinner on Friday, Jan. 20. The four hospitality honorees are Rich Rosendale, Danny Alioti, Rose Russo and Pati Stevenson. There are also four lifetime achievement awards going to Tony Tollner, the Bozzo family, Cindy and Ted Walter, and Marie and Ted Favaloro. The humanitarian award recipient is nonprofit Al and Friends. You can join the celebrations by purchasing tickets at ticketor.com/ spadaroawards. New Year, New Menu…Seaside Seafood & Market has welcomed 2023 with a brand-new breakfast menu. Don’t worry, the seafood-centric dinner options aren’t going anywhere—they are just being joined by many breakfast and lunch options as well. Some breakfast highlights include the crab cake and avocado egg benedict, strawberry shortcake pancakes and the seafood omelette. 789 Trinity Ave., Seaside. 394-2027, seasideseafoodmarket.com. Brew To You…Fieldwork Brewing now offers local delivery for their cans and growlers. If you live within five miles of their location you can order online and have beer brought right to your door. If you are further away than that, you can still get their beer brought to you for $10. Or, during a break between rain, you can post up in their outdoor seating. 560 Munras Ave., Monterey. 324-0658, fieldworkbrewing.com/monterey. Birthday Batch…The Salinasbased cottage food cookie company That Unique Batch is turning 1 and celebrating by offering a 16-percent discount on all cookie orders to celebrate. Pre-order for pick-up in Salinas, or to be delivered for a fee. There’s something for everyone, including decadent vegan and gluten-free options. instagram.com/ thatuniquebatch. In The Case…Coffee shop Captain + Stoker has crafted its guest lineup for the pastry case this January while its regular pastry purveyor, Parker-Lusseau, is on a well-deserved winter vacation. The lineup includes: pastries from Ad Astra and Bee’s Knees Bakery; cookies from B.E.G. For More Sweets; kimbap handrolls from Higeyatsu; cupcakes from Kimchi’s Kakes and Desserts; homemade cinnamon rolls by Sam’s Cinnamon Rolls. Stop by and try something new. 398 E. Franklin St., Monterey. 901-3776, captainandstoker.com. By Jacqueline Weixel morsels Send a bite to eatanddrink@mcweekly.com “We put together a market for everyone.” Eat + DrinK Daniel Dreifuss Fruit Forward Forest Produce Market has shoppers wowed with global options and unexpected finds. By Dave Faries
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